CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Decoding/Numbers => Topic started by: Boarsnest on June 10, 2015, 02:09:38 AM
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Hi I'm new here. I've got a 69 302 short block
Casting #3932386
Pad# V1027DZ
Date. J88
Crank. 1178
I can't find the partial vin on it.
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Welcome to the CRG!
Are you trying to find the partial VIN in order to put the motor with the original body?
The partial Vin is very hard to see even with the block in good lighting and out of the car. It will be in the rough casting above the oil filter location. It is going to start with 19N******.
How did you come across the block?
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I was trying to find the vin because I think the engine would be better off in a car that needs it,as opposed to being drag raced to death if I keep it 😉 I actually bought the engine as a 327 for my 54 Chevy,and under closer inspection it turned out to be a dz
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Since this is an October 1968 casting the vin should be on the pad. It wasn't moved to the location by the oil filter until later.
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My LOS Oct 68 LM1 has partial VIN by the oil filter, so it is safe to say, look at both areas. VIN's were being moved around alot back then depending on if it was built in NOR or LOS (Van Nuys) .
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Well it's definitely not on the pad. I guess I'll have really look by the filter
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It may take a few different people looking at it with good lighting, but when you see it all of sudden it will pop out at you.
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I was able to read mine using a camera with a flash from different angles. It shows up in the shadows...Joe
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Try to post a pic of the engine pad if you can.
And as for the oil filter area, try rubbing some chalk on that area and then look again. It's easy to clean off if you can't see anything, but sometimes that helps.
Good luck.
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Here's the pad
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Your deck has been milled, broach marks are no longer visible, and the stamped characters are not in alignment... which is out of the norm for factory stamps that I've seen (at least a few hundred)...
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My JM certified DZ stamp is pretty much perfectly aligned as suggested by 69Z28-RS & broach marks are visible.
I'm no expert but this looks like a re-stamp to me as well.
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I too am no expert, but I would bet big money this has been decked and restamped. NEVER seen a sloppy crooked stamp from the factory like that. I wouldn't bother looking for the VIN. Unless ya wanna just see for fun. ;D D
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obvious bad restamp.
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A couple questions, would it have been restamped because of having the deck milled? And even with the correct crank, caps,and block casting #, it's of no use to a restorer? Just curious before i load it up with nitrous and beat it at the track
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Once its been decked and the original stampings are removed its just another block. Unless somehow you had photos of the block before it was machined and a certified letter from the machine shop that did the work (highly unlikely)..
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A couple questions, would it have been restamped because of having the deck milled? And even with the correct crank, caps,and block casting #, it's of no use to a restorer? Just curious before i load it up with nitrous and beat it at the track
The block is probably NOT of any use to a restorer in my opinion. The crankshaft is of use to a restorer, if it is standard and has not been turned. The rods and pistons may also be of use, if original.
And yes, the reason you are not finding a partial VIN is because it was probably on the pad and removed when it was decked.
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Ok, thanks a lot for the information. now I won't feel bad about putting it in a 56 meteor gasser, and racing it ;D
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Whats interesting is that the stamp area is raised even though it was milled. If it was an original stamp and the deck milled, (a very small amount) the characters would be visible but there wouldn't be any raised areas as pictured. The fonts, spacing are wrong. The PC way of saying it "the stamping is not what is typically found".
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There's always the chance that it was a DZ block, but was decked and the shop reinstalled the #'s. Many don't know what that does to value...