CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: RS_COPO_Canuck on February 09, 2015, 06:48:44 PM
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Hi All - tried searching. Is there a thread with some good shots of an engine compartment. A great survivor or a correct restored would work. :)
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Why not do a search (here and off site) for a L78 396/375, a more "common species"(lol). Only thing different from the L72 is the block, and radiator & air cleaner (on most) IIRC. There are plenty of good pics out there of 396's. There are some real good pics of a 16k mile original on the Yenko site recently posted.
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Yes - I was thinking of typing in L78.....but my brain went on vacation. Thanks for the info!
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It's old school these days but there were several COPO Camaros reviewed in period magazines. Super Stock & Drag Illustrated [I think] had an Olympic Gold Yenko Camaro; #3 and #5 ZL1s were also tested. Also a Yenko Chevelle in there. May take some searching and you will have to pay up for those issues but they are well worth it.
The #3 ZL1 feature is of particular interest as it has undercarriage photos showing it was built with the production N10 dual resonator/single muffler exhaust system. There was an interim system w/o resonators but it was Z/28 only. Most COPOs are incorrectly restored without resonators.
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Great - Thanks - I love that stuff! I'll surf ebay etc.
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here is link to the L78 I mentioned. Not an RS, but good detail pics. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.314452995410366.1073741836.312607635594902&type=1
and this site: http://www.69pace.com/2/1969engineL78.htm
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Here's a link to an engine bay photo of a COPO Camaro a few weeks after delivery.
http://www.icehouse.net/camaros/slvrcopo.htm
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Interesting to see the air cleaner seal inside out and hood insulation on standard interior. hmmmm.
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Hood insulation is on all ZL2's.
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Good to know. Also found several other cowl induction seals done the same way with period correct photos. Goes to show never say never. Good stuff.
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Yea, to get the hood seals correct they have to be trained. I fold the top lip down around the bottom lip while its mounted on the sheet metal ring. Then close the hood and walk away from it for several weeks. Then release it to normal position and shut the hood when the flare is out and stays that way held by the hood.
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If you can't get the new rubber seal to 'stay in position' long enough to close the hood, here's my trick. Use a few pieces of masking task around the periphery to hold the rubber outward as it's supposed to be, and then close the hood on it for a few days. After a bit, you can open the hood, remove the tape and it will be 'trained'... :)
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Didnīt need to train my seal at all, just turn it inside out from how itīs delivered and mount it correctly and voilā! :)
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Some of this may be helpfull, be careful using tape, I pulled some rubber loose with tape, and be careful tugging to hard on the edges.
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/594265/cowl-induction-seal
Mike
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Some of this may be helpfull, be careful using tape, I pulled some rubber loose with tape, and be careful tugging to hard on the edges.
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/594265/cowl-induction-seal
Mike
I've never had that happen using 3M masking tapes, but I have had issues removing other types of tape... Duct tape can remove paint when you remove it... so be careful, and don't leave it on too long...
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Didnīt need to train my seal at all, just turn it inside out from how itīs delivered and mount it correctly and voilā! :)
I trained my seal to spin balls on its nose and to honk horns. :^)
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Didnīt need to train my seal at all, just turn it inside out from how itīs delivered and mount it correctly and voilā! :)
I trained my seal to spin balls on its nose and to honk horns. :^)
You must have lots of spare time.
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That pic of the orig seal is not inside out. Just not laying down.
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Didnīt need to train my seal at all, just turn it inside out from how itīs delivered and mount it correctly and voilā! :)
I trained my seal to spin balls on its nose and to honk horns. :^)
You must have lots of spare time.
Nah - just lots of spare corny jokes! Is there a correct seal being made?
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It was green 3M tape, only did it in one small spot, just pulled the outside layer off. Another good alternative is to wrap it with wire harness black wrap.
Mike
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Didnīt need to train my seal at all, just turn it inside out from how itīs delivered and mount it correctly and voilā! :)
I trained my seal to spin balls on its nose and to honk horns. :^)
You must have lots of spare time.
Nah - just lots of spare corny jokes! Is there a correct seal being made?
GM discontinued it not long ago. Can still find them just more expensive. Not sure how the repop is most likely not as good.