CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: 69 Zee on August 09, 2014, 03:37:28 PM
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Hello all,
I stumbled across this X77 Z about a month ago that’s been literally garaged and barn kept since 1979-80. I just got it home yesterday after a longggggg day and late nite. I wanted to share the story and pics with those interested. I thought the story was interesting enough to share.
The original owner (Jack) bought it new from Liberty Chevy in New York. Jack & wife moved from NY to Denver to Texas then settle in Tampa in 1977. It was driven as a family car until 1978. Jack traded it off for a $700 trade-in value toward a 4 door family car as they now had a 3 year old son. (see pic of wife holding son and in stroller, Jack under the hood). The Z was bought by a lady (2nd owner, who's still a mystery) who only owned it for a year then listed it in the local Tampa News paper to sell (see original paper clipping). A guy name Tom (3rd owner) bought it from the ad where it was being advertised for $1700 "69 Camaro Z28 good condition, stock from factory". Can I still sign up ? I'll take a dozen at the price..crazy huh..lol Tom drove it for 1 year during his senior year in high school 1979. The Tampa dealer or the mystery 2nd owner repainted it to white with blue stripes, a reverse of the factory colors. I'm guessing the Tampa dealer repainted, figuring the car being 10-12 yrs old needed a new paint job to get a better sell price (group pics below). Shortly after graduating Tom started tearing the Z apart because he wanted to freash'n up the motor and repaint it back to it's original colors. (reason you see car apart in the group pic). Then again shortly after that Tom passed away from a motorcycle accident and the car sat in his/wife’s garage for the next 20 years untouched until 2000. In 2000, Phil (4th owner, Toms High School best friend) bought it from Tom’s wife. Phil stated he bought because he knew it was untouched (except for what his frd Tom had done) and all original. Phil towed it home with the parts boxed up. There Phil parked it in his climate controlled garage/barn with the intention of rebuilding it someday. That day never came as Phil said he was also more of a hot rodder than a numbers guy and since this Z retained every original part from the radiator tag to the tire jack and lug nuts he knew it deserved to be restored back to its original condition rather than cut up and hot hodded around. This guy Phil, coolest dude around. Had a garage/barn separate from his house. A/C'd with a dozen other cars inside including his own 68 Camaro and a 70 Chevelle from his high school days.
The Z is complete with the born DZ block/engine, M20 transmission and BU 373 rear. Has every engine components from the carb to oil pan. Carb, intake, Alt, balancer, pulleys, heads, smog, chrome breather, crank, cam, "0" rockers, every nut and bolt...Everything ! Original YH rims, brake calipers, suspension, all body panels and Interior. Interior seats and console are in excellent condition (all wrapped in blankets since 1979). Z has only 59K original miles
Car needs complete restoration but has 99% of all the born with parts for the car. Very little metal work needed as it is overall solid from front to back.
Born with color is Dusk Blue code 51 and standard blue Interior code 715 with a white vinyl top.
I have all the original paper work, the original owners name and number who now lives in Arizona. The POP and even the newspaper clipping when it was for sale for $1700
The original owner, Jack now lives in Arizona. I was able to get his email address also. Jack ordered this with power steering, no rear spoiler, flat hood and console w/gauges. Jack stated the reason he ordered w/o a rear spoiler was because his wife didn’t like the way it looked.
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Here's some of the original doc's and pics from the original owner's POP and the $1700 bill of sell from the mystery 2nd owner. Someone was a fan of the "Chip and Dales " ...lol notice the script at the bottom of the sale. ;D also when the Z was repainted in the reverse of the factory colors.
I'm going to try and research the seller name "Pat" and see what I can find.
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Copngratulations Darrell...
it sounds as if it could be a great car when everything is put back.. :)
and fantastic that you received the protecto-plate and paperwork!!
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Wow..Great find. Congratulations are definitely in order. Keep the pics coming.
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Here's she is all loaded up and about ready to pull away. We had another 12 ft trailer loaded with all the parts, interior, motor, trans, body parts and other goodies..lol
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Originals YH and correct dated rims. Hidden VIN's all in order. Body is about 97% solid. Will need some work to the rear of each qtrs and a few small area in the trunk and floor pan. But over all... solid and it will retain most all it's metal... WOOHOO !!
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Copngratulations Darrell...
it sounds as if it could be a great car when everything is put back.. :)
and fantastic that you received the protecto-plate and paperwork!!
Thanks, yeah it's been X-mas in August for me..lol.
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Wow..Great find. Congratulations are definitely in order. Keep the pics coming.
Thanks, my phone's been smoking from pics..lol. More coming
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Oddly I haven't seen any partial VIN stamp on the eng. pad nor the filter location. Is it possible that the stamper ran off to the bathroom when my blocked passed..lol ???
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What exactly does all that paint mean ? Looks like someone had a "Friday liquid lunch" near quitting time in Norwood while assembling the crank. I know that area, being from Cincinnati originally and there's plenty of bars to hit for lunch..lol
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Re the VIN stamp on the engine.. Anything is possible, but not having one is not probable... :) Your block appears to have been 'worked' before.. the stamping on the deck is 'thin', but I can still see broach marks, so it appears to be the original application stamping and matches the Protectoplate. The block surface you photographed also appears to have been repainted before,so I suspect once you clean the paint off that area, and look very closely, you'll see the VIN stamp on the cast surface. NOTE: that stamping is very difficult to see even with perfect metal and vision.. Be careful when cleaning to NOT abrade the block itself.. Use a little lacquer thinner and a brass fine bristle brush to clean the block, then put a bright light on it.. look at it from various angles also holding your bright light at various angles.. I'm sure it will 'pop out' for you.. then photograph it.. ensure that the stamping is captured in the image.... :)
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it appears to me that your biggest 'issues' are going to be: 1) finding all the fasteners that were removed when things were disassembled.. and if you have them, getting them associated with the correct locations.. and 2) paying the costs for rebuilding/restoring the parts.. You have a great starting place though.. :)
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it appears to me that your biggest 'issues' are going to be: 1) finding all the fasteners that were removed when things were disassembled.. and if you have them, getting them associated with the correct locations.. and 2) paying the costs for rebuilding/restoring the parts.. You have a great starting place though.. :)
Yeah I have 2 huge containers also of all the brackets, nuts, bolts, screws, washer..ect. Phil stated that he knows the history of the car since his high school days (1979) and the block was never touch, just disassembled. He does not know anything about what the dealer in Tampa may have done. But he highly doubted it. Car has 59K actual miles also.
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Congrats Darrell, I've been looking forward to you getting it home and letting us see.
I agree with Gary, you will probably have to carefully remove the paint and might have to get some good light and a magnifying glass and then you might only see part of the VIN numbers. That's the way it is on mine. Mine is still in the car which makes it even more difficult to read. They just didn't stamp them very hard or clear there a lot of the time.
Keep the pics and info coming!
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The heads and Carb numbers. Also the drive shaft with the stripes. Again..anyone have answers about the stripes around the drive shaft ?
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Trying post pics of the Trans. It's a M20. Also has a plug marked "W" or "M" on it. Gotta resize pics or take better ones. So bare with me guys.
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The heads and Carb numbers. Also the drive shaft with the stripes. Again..anyone have answers about the stripes around the drive shaft ?
I have no data on driveshaft stripes, but I think Bryon Miller is collecting that data, and if yours is the original .. I'm sure he would love to have your input.. Look up driveshaft cleaning and preserving (use a chemical rust remover) and do not sand, abrade, or repaint... *S* get it clean, and then clear over it to preserve it...
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I've seen where the driveshaft is put in a PVC tube and filled with evaporust for example. Thats what I plan to do with mine.
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I've seen where the driveshaft is put in a PVC tube and filled with evaporust for example. Thats what I plan to do with mine.
Len, I know you've been waiting..lol Gotta download a photo app. some pics are to large and won't load. I'm currently trying to get somewhat organized..lol with all the parts.
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Take your time Bro and enjoy :)
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Thought I 'd just throw these 2 pics in here. The previous home of the Z. Sat inside along with 10 other cars. Inside this location since 2000. There was a 59 vette, a deuce, 2 chevelles, 2 '68 camaros, a '67, a 70 z/28 and 2 '71's camaro.
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nice find, put it back together and have some fun. great looking car and just a few weeks behind my 03E
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Thought this was interesting. X code on the LH shoulder. Cant make out the rest... anyone ?
Drivers side rocker solid and body shims
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Harmonic Balancer 7708M, PS Pump & Deep groove pulley 3941105DD and Fla tag (last time it was tagged)
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Here's the open air element cover and base. Not to familiar with these but was told it's original also and that the markings on the inside makes it a hard to find "correct cover" Anyone have input on this as well ? Probably still the original flame arrestor as well ???
Thanks
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Here was a recent discussion about air cleaners: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11091.0
I don't think it mattered if it was a SB or BB for that thread.
Mike
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Ok, I did what a couple of you suggested for getting the partial Vin off the filter side. Took some aircraft paint stripper and a brass brush... BAM !! But it's very light and hard to see entirely. I took like 30 pics until I was able to get one even this good :-[ I could barely see part of "N" and parts of the last 2 digits "33" But it is there
Thanks guys
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Here was a recent discussion about air cleaners: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11091.0
I don't think it mattered if it was a SB or BB for that thread.
Mike
Thanks Mike.. Gonna go read.
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"Oddly I haven't seen any partial VIN stamp on the eng. pad nor the filter location. Is it possible that the stamper ran off to the bathroom when my blocked passed..lol"
Bingo! I know that feeling when you can see any of those magic numbers.
I'm glad the stamp guy didn't go to the bathroom, he just didn't eat his Wheaties :)
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Finally the rest of the drive train ;D The rear "BU 0314 G1 E" and 4 Leaf spring and the exhaust hanger plate. Original rear shock..long gone :( It has old set of Air Shocks "High Jackers"
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"Oddly I haven't seen any partial VIN stamp on the eng. pad nor the filter location. Is it possible that the stamper ran off to the bathroom when my blocked passed..lol"
Bingo! I know that feeling when you can see any of those magic numbers.
I'm glad the stamp guy didn't go to the bathroom, he just didn't eat his Wheaties :)
LMAO !
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The Power Brake Booster "9204". Notice the "4" just caught the right edge of the tab. The Master Cylinder "5468309". I can just barely see the "S" of the "US" stamp.
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What are the dates on the master cylinder and booster?
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What are the dates on the master cylinder and booster?
Len, If you wanna check back tomorrow I'll post a pic. I thought I had taken it.. guess not. I'm at work now or I'd go take it.
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No big deal, I was just curious how much ahead of the build date on your car those two parts were.
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Here's some new pics of the Drive Shaft. I just use a little degreaser and rubbed lightly. The pinkish stripe begins at about 16-1/2" and the green ends at about 20" from the edge. Each stripe is between 1" and 1-1/8" wide. I know there's some threads out there about these stripes, I've just haven't read any yet so I'm clueless about them at this point. :-\
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Engine frame mounts "3945507" RH and "3945508" LH. Notice the 2 different type mounting bolts used.. Sems and another supplier. Again, does anyone know the supplier of the other bolt ? Looks like FH or FU.
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Here's the open air element cover and base. Not to familiar with these but was told it's original also and that the markings on the inside makes it a hard to find "correct cover" Anyone have input on this as well ? Probably still the original flame arrestor as well ???
Thanks
Nice find. With the 03E build date the air cleaner lid has the straight silk screen print instead of the curved. Are we getting any closer to finding out when that change was made? I have a curved print lid which I don't think is correct for my build date but don't have enough info to say it is or isn't. Were they both used throughout production?
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Original and correct rad tag for a Z/28. The core is new but the Inlet and Outlet tanks are original. I'm missing the bracket that's soldered on the RH side but I still have a few large boxes of things to go thru. May be in there somewhere.. if not I'll be searching for an original.
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Here's the open air element cover and base. Not to familiar with these but was told it's original also and that the markings on the inside makes it a hard to find "correct cover" Anyone have input on this as well ? Probably still the original flame arrestor as well ???
Thanks
Nice find. With the 03E build date the air cleaner lid has the straight silk screen print instead of the curved. Are we getting any closer to finding out when that change was made? I have a curved print lid which I don't think is correct for my build date but don't have enough info to say it is or isn't. Were they both used throughout production?
Thanks Gary, Now I got to look at the cover tomorrow. Is this suppose to be a sticker ? Only asking because I don't remember seeing and edges indicating a sticker or decal. I was thinking it was embossed but then again..if it was embossed I'd think I'd see some sort of imprint on the top side..hmmm.
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Darrell,
Nice job so far... :) just remember.... clean and preserve.. don't destroy or coverup.. :)
1) I'm glad you were able to bring out the VIN on the block; I thought you'd be able to with the engine out of the car.
2) Great job on the drive shaft... I wish I'd taken as much car with mine... :(
3) The MC has a cast date (Julian date) on the opposite side from the 'xxxx309' PN.. see how closely that jives with the mid March dates of your other parts.. The booster also has a Julian date on the opposite side of the tab from the 9204 stamp.
4) Don't worry about the bolt markings for bolts that are still installed; just remember to bag/detail label them when you remove them for cleaning. Lots of bolt mfgs were used, but it will give you a great deal of satisfaction to be able to put them back in the same locations they came from.. :)
For removing rust - Evaporust and/or Metal Rescue.. for preserving bare metal parts - Boeshield (avail thru Sears)..
Gary
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Darrell,
Nice job so far... :) just remember.... clean and preserve.. don't destroy or coverup.. :)
1) I'm glad you were able to bring out the VIN on the block; I thought you'd be able to with the engine out of the car.
2) Great job on the drive shaft... I wish I'd taken as much car with mine... :(
3) The MC has a cast date (Julian date) on the opposite side from the 'xxxx309' PN.. see how closely that jives with the mid March dates of your other parts.. The booster also has a Julian date on the opposite side of the tab from the 9204 stamp.
4) Don't worry about the bolt markings for bolts that are still installed; just remember to bag/detail label them when you remove them for cleaning. Lots of bolt mfgs were used, but it will give you a great deal of satisfaction to be able to put them back in the same locations they came from.. :)
For removing rust - Evaporust and/or Metal Rescue.. for preserving bare metal parts - Boeshield (avail thru Sears)..
Gary
Thanks Gary and thanks for the tips. I remember seeing a number stamped opposite of the "9204" on the front side but I didn't give a second thought to what it meant. The MC, I was looking under it for the cast date and didn't see one. Not sure why I didn't look on the other side. Will post those numbers tomorrow.
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Darrell, also when you get a chance check the date on your radiator. There is a letter right between the C and B on that tank. I would assume it would be an A,B or C for Jan, Feb or March since you have a March built car. Cool stuff, keep it coming. Always intriguing to see original dated and coded parts when most got changed and or pitched back in the day.
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Darrell, also when you get a chance check the date on your radiator. There is a letter right between the C and B on that tank. I would assume it would be an A,B or C for Jan, Feb or March since you have a March built car. Cool stuff, keep it coming. Always intriguing to see original dated and coded parts when most got changed and or pitched back in the day.
Len, are you referring to the C and B on the tag ? That the Radiator date letter will be found on the tank behind the tag ? Do I understand that correctly ? or is there another C and B on the tank somewhere that I'm unaware of ?
Thanks
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Yes, the tanks should have a large C B on one tank and I H on the other. The CB will be below the radiator cap and the "Fill Cold" both on the inlet and outlet hose side, the I H about midway on the other tank. Then a smaller letter right in between the C B which is the date. Again I would assume yours would be an A,B or C for Jan, Feb or March.
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Darrell, I finally got a chance to read your post. Great find, with a decent amount of history, and the bonus of the Protecto plate. I am glad you found the right car for yourself, and did not settle on any of the previous ones. You have the makings of a great car on your hands, and you will have the knowledge that it is done right piecing it back together.
Gary W has the right idea preserve as much of it as you can, taking notes and pics regarding factory marks and parts used as you go. When you look back this will be an invaluable tool that you will always go back and reference. All the close up pics of the stamps are a nice little reference when you need to know a date on your car or know what your car came with.
What is your plan for the car ? (Are you going to put it back stock with the white vinyl and no spoiler?)
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Congrats on the car. Gonna be a pretty put back to original..
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Thanks Bullitt65 and Darrell. Yes I have every plan to keep it original. I think the Dusk blue with the white top and stripes will look killer. I've search around on the net looking for that color combo on another Z. I just wanted to see what it'd look like finished. I've yet to find one (I'm sure they're out there). Only with black tops so far is all I've found. I did find a SS w/white convertible to get a general idea. I'm liking it ! ;D
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Your right about that. I have seen a lemans blue with a white vinyl top Z, but not a dusk blue yet*. It would definitely stand out with the white vinyl, like that convertible.
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Updated pics of the Julian cast dates to both the Master Cylinder and the Power Brake Booster. Booster looks like an upside down "64" (March 5th) and the Master Cylinder is "072" (March 13).
Ok, now here's a question. My block and rear are the latest dated things so far. Both being March 14 which was a Friday. My TT is dated 03B which would be around the 10-14th (Mon-Fri). Would it be safe to say my car may have rolled off the assembly line that Friday the 14th or very early the following week..say the 17 thru 19th ? ??? I wouldn't think it would be much later into the next week or it would of got a 03C TT.
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Congrats on the car. Gonna be a pretty put back to original..
Thanks Darrell, Just an FYI in reference to the Air Cleaner cover. I looked it over pretty good and it appears the the letters on the inside are raised and not embossed as I had thought earlier. Nor do I see any indications of it being a decal. Was this how some were ? Gonna post an updated and clean pic soon.
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Here's additional Radiator pics with the date being "C" or March ;D Thought I'd snap a pic of "Harrison" as well .... pretty cool
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Coil Spring with the original "YF" tag barely hanging on. Both Springs tags were unreadable from the years of weathering. The Brake backing plates lost their stickers as well with both leaving prints of where they once were. :( The Brake Distribution switch and it's bracket.
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Darrell, very cool. So far all your dates are lining up real well. I will let Gary or one of the others explain actual build date and how that worked. Its been discussed on here several times but one of them will do a better job explaining it. You might want to send off for your NCRS shipping data report. It would be a nice addition to the paper work you have.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11724.0
The Dusk blue convertible in the picture looks great. You will have a unique and great looking color combo when you get her done!
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Heres one for ya, sold for $49,500, but I don't know how long ago http://www.thechevconnection.com/69z28dskblue.htm
(obviously a little different as this one has the ZL-2 hood, and rear spoiler, and appears to have the X33 trim, But at least it gives you a close visual example)
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Nice find Austin. Great looking car!
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Darrell, very cool. So far all your dates are lining up real well. I will let Gary or one of the others explain actual build date and how that worked. Its been discussed on here several times but one of them will do a better job explaining it. You might want to send off for your NCRS shipping data report. It would be a nice addition to the paper work you have.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11724.0
The Dusk blue convertible in the picture looks great. You will have a unique and great looking color combo when you get her done!
Thanks Len, Just ordered it :) Yeah I agree, unique combo for sure.
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Heres one for ya, sold for $49,500, but I don't know how long ago http://www.thechevconnection.com/69z28dskblue.htm
(obviously a little different as this one has the ZL-2 hood, and rear spoiler, and appears to have the X33 trim, But at least it gives you a close visual example)
Cool Austin, Thanks :) Truthfully at first I wasn't to hip to the color. The white top is what sets it off in my mind, then the white stripe ties it all together. Very sharp, now a fan of Dusk Blue.
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Jack set up. Thought was cool with the markings.
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Darrell, What is the date code on the jack itself?
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Darrell,
Sharp car, good project.
This reminds me a lot of my X77 - unrestored, apart since '80, all there but scattered (LeMans/white no VT).
You forgot the pic with the date code on the jack head rivet -
Regards,
Steve
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Darrell, What is the date code on the jack itself?
Rick - you beat me to the punch by a minute or two - I type at the speed of slugs -
Regards -
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Darrell,
Sharp car, good project.
This reminds me a lot of my X77 - unrestored, apart since '80, all there but scattered (LeMans/white no VT).
You forgot the pic with the date code on the jack head rivet -
Regards,
Steve
Thanks Steve and Rick, You all just educated me. Didn't even know. I did just find a rivet with 2 numbers...posting in a few. Hope this is it and how is it read ?
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I believe this is the Jack date. 9C ? would that be the 9th of March ? Didn't even know it was dated :-\
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I believe this is the Jack date. 9C ? would that be the 9th of March ? Didn't even know it was dated :-\
No Darrell, (9) = 69 (C) = March
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I believe this is the Jack date. 9C ? would that be the 9th of March ? Didn't even know it was dated :-\
No Darrell, (9) = 69 (C) = March
Oh cool. damn dates..lol, So that is the correct date then.. good :)
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Darrell, What is the date code on the jack itself?
Rick - you beat me to the punch by a minute or two - I type at the speed of slugs -
Regards -
No problem Steve, We're all pretty excited about Darrell's new car. He can't keep us updated fast enough.
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I'm enjoying it - really energizes me to start hauling stuff out of storage and into the light.
Man, I've got to get busy -
Keep it going, Darrell - you're doing good.
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I'm enjoying it - really energizes me to start hauling stuff out of storage and into the light.
Man, I've got to get busy -
Keep it going, Darrell - you're doing good.
Between work, house chores, keeping mamma happy.. I've been about non-stop for several days now. And I just discovered today that I left a box of BIG parts back at the current owners place. We've talked and just trying to figure out when to get them. It's the #480 distributor, smog pump, pulley and air tubes, #837 Alternator and deep-groove pulley, #668 Crank pulley, Water pump and pulley and exhaust manifolds.. DANG man I left half the engine there. I had them in my hands moving them around and checking all the numbers. I just set them off to the side and forgot them... I'm about brain-dead I think :(
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So I'll bore ya's with the original Z-bar ::)
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Or maybe this will get ya.. The greasy #403 Bell Housing, but it's in great shape. Just a little degreaser and good like new ;D or maybe THIS !!! the Seat belts..lol Yup some cleaning to do here also.
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Thought this was interesting. The original hood in excellent shape still (no dents or rust). Remember the pics from the beginning where it was repainted the reverse colors. Well I notice the original Dusk Blue just at the edge of the blue stripe. Like it was part of the blue stripe itself with what looks like a masking tape line. ??? just odd.
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Sounds like about a $5000-$6000 box of parts you left behind... :)
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Sounds like about a $5000-$6000 box of parts you left behind... :)
Yeah...UGH ! aggravated at myself cause that's an 8 hour day if I gotta go back for them. My fault, so be it. :(
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Sounds like about a $5000-$6000 box of parts you left behind... :)
Yeah...UGH ! aggravated at myself cause that's an 8 hour day if I gotta go back for them. My fault, so be it. :(
I'd spend that 8 hr day as soon as possible.. :)
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Coil Spring with the original "YF" tag barely hanging on. Both Springs tags were unreadable from the years of weathering. The Brake backing plates lost their stickers as well with both leaving prints of where they once were. :( The Brake Distribution switch and it's bracket.
You might try carefully soaking that spring tag in water. I found an original tag on mine that was impossible to read unless it is wet. Then you can see the codes. Just something to try.
-Mark.
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Coil Spring with the original "YF" tag barely hanging on. Both Springs tags were unreadable from the years of weathering. The Brake backing plates lost their stickers as well with both leaving prints of where they once were. :( The Brake Distribution switch and it's bracket.
You might try carefully soaking that spring tag in water. I found an original tag on mine that was impossible to read unless it is wet. Then you can see the codes. Just something to try.
-Mark.
Thanks Mark, From my position when I took the pic it looked unreadable and obviously weathered. Maybe once that's all disassembled I'll be able to save. Hope so :)
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Now here's something of interest...maybe someone can answer. This plate and belt (which is the same color as the seat belts) is attached to the trunk floor just above the spare tire bracket. On the underside you can see the thru-bolt with a plate and nut. It may be hard to see from the pics, but this plate, bolt and nut has the same undercoating type material on it as the bottom of the trunk pan. It appears that the undercoating was all shot at once. Could this been added by the Dealer and if so..what the heck could it of been used for ?
Thanks
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Additional Rear Axle numbers: 12 bolt "3894860" and casting date code "C 8 9" (March 8th '69). Should of posted earlier with axle tube stamp..missed it ! Sorry guys
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7 Blade Fan #3947772 dated "A69" (Jan '69) Anyone have a clue to what the 914087 next to the A69 is ? or what the "L" is that's next to the A69.. BTW that "L" is only on one of the 7 blades.
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Since the Fan Clutch was painted orange ??? I guess this will be hard to tell if it's the original or not. Also I didn't see anything stamped other than the word "EATON". Look at the 4th pic, "EATON" is stamped into the body. Could this possibly be a replacement also ? Not sure what I have here but it looks identical to what an original should look like ???
BTW..all those following, I'm heading back across the state Saturday morning after the tub of other parts I left behind... LIKE 1/2 THE DANG GONE ENGINE ! There was the Alt and brackets, crank pulley, Smog pump set up, Exh Manifolds, Dist., Water pump, pulley and Timing cover.. I believe that's it. Only want to make this drive once more !
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I could save you the trip, and take them off your hands..... ::) ;D :D
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Since the Fan Clutch was painted orange ??? I guess this will be hard to tell if it's the original or not. Also I didn't see anything stamped other than the word "EATON". Look at the 4th pic, "EATON" is stamped into the body. Could this possibly be a replacement also ? Not sure what I have here but it looks identical to what an original should look like ???
BTW..all those following, I'm heading back across the state Saturday morning after the tub of other parts I left behind... LIKE 1/2 THE DANG GONE ENGINE ! There was the Alt and brackets, crank pulley, Smog pump set up, Exh Manifolds, Dist., Water pump, pulley and Timing cover.. I believe that's it. Only want to make this drive once more !
The fan clutch would have had an 'inked' date code and I think also an app code on it from the factory. You *might* be able to carefully clean off the orange paint and try to retain the ink stamps underneath..?
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I've search around on the net looking for that color combo on another Z. I just wanted to see what it'd look like finished. I've yet to find one (I'm sure they're out there).
Stumbled on this video...Dusk blue Z white stripes and white vinyl top..Complete with the infamous Caution Fan sticker lol...
http://musclecaroftheweek.com/?video=muscle-car-of-the-week-video-55-1969-chevrolet-camaro-z-28-302
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Jack I think that might be the same car i found a pic of. You just seemed to " one up " me by finding a video of it. Good find
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I've search around on the net looking for that color combo on another Z. I just wanted to see what it'd look like finished. I've yet to find one (I'm sure they're out there).
Stumbled on this video...Dusk blue Z white stripes and white vinyl top..Complete with the infamous Caution Fan sticker lol...
http://musclecaroftheweek.com/?video=muscle-car-of-the-week-video-55-1969-chevrolet-camaro-z-28-302
Jack, cool video. Thanks for finding and posting.
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Since the Fan Clutch was painted orange ??? I guess this will be hard to tell if it's the original or not. Also I didn't see anything stamped other than the word "EATON". Look at the 4th pic, "EATON" is stamped into the body. Could this possibly be a replacement also ? Not sure what I have here but it looks identical to what an original should look like ???
BTW..all those following, I'm heading back across the state Saturday morning after the tub of other parts I left behind... LIKE 1/2 THE DANG GONE ENGINE ! There was the Alt and brackets, crank pulley, Smog pump set up, Exh Manifolds, Dist., Water pump, pulley and Timing cover.. I believe that's it. Only want to make this drive once more !
The fan clutch would have had an 'inked' date code and I think also an app code on it from the factory. You *might* be able to carefully clean off the orange paint and try to retain the ink stamps underneath..?
I knew of the ink stamp. Reason why I'm hating that orange paint on there. Just about afraid that anything that'll eat the paint just might eat the ink stamp as well. Do you know if the original also had the "EATON" embossed into it also? That would give me more hope if it did. :)
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I could save you the trip, and take them off your hands..... ::) ;D :D
Austin.. the way I ran off leaving them sit off to the side you'd think I didn't want them.
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I just remembered I had not posted any pics of the Transmission because some of the pic files were to large. So lets try again.
Transmission #660 with the VIN "19N617033" and dated "P9C06 A" ('69 March 6th) A = M-20 also the original "W" plug. :)
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More.. The Trans tag for the Muncie M20 "3946797" The shift bracket and bolts
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Darrell, I thought about reminding you we hadn't seen the tranny yet. Glad you got around to it. :)
What about the complete Hurst shifter and chrome knob?
Everything is really looking great.
That video with your color combo made me drool.
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Darrell, I thought about reminding you we hadn't seen the tranny yet. Glad you got around to it. :)
What about the complete Hurst shifter and chrome knob?
Everything is really looking great.
That video with your color combo made me drool.
Thanks Len, Yeah I totally forgot.. I had to go thru all postings to make sure. Didn't want to repeat something..lol I'm actually going over the Hurst pics now. But I'm a little confused on what I'm seeing.. So I'm hoping you guys will chime in and maybe explain what I am and am not seeing.
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Hurst Competition/Plus U.S. PAT. NO. 3216274 Shifter with the "3138" stamp. Anyone know exactly what the 19D52P stands for ?..a date of some sort ? I tried researching and found different opinions as to what it is. ??? and seen this number to be different on about every shifter. Some with more numbers and some with only 1 letter among the numbers. A date to me makes no sense as I've seen no consistency in this number/letter system.... unless I'm missing something.
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Also I'm a little baffled to the levers and rods. I found a number "5769" stamped onto the Reverse Rod Lever which is correct and a number "5771" stamped on the Reverse Rod. Which I believe is all correct. Now the question.. I haven't seen any numbers stamped on Levers 1 & 2 3 & 4 nor either of the Rods. If I did my homework correctly shouldn't there be "1876" and "1885" on the Rods and "5773" on both levers ? Although I've also seen pics of these parts without these numbers.. thus my confusion ???
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Hurst Shifter Stick p/n "5325" ... No ball yet :'( unless it's in the container of parts I'm heading after tomorrow.. crossing fingers.
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Hurst Competition/Plus U.S. PAT. NO. 3216274 Shifter with the "3138" stamp. Anyone know exactly what the 19D52P stands for ?..a date of some sort ? I tried researching and found different opinions as to what it is. ??? and seen this number to be different on about every shifter. Some with more numbers and some with only 1 letter among the numbers. A date to me makes no sense as I've seen no consistency in this number/letter system.... unless I'm missing something.
Your shifter was built by Hurst during January of 1969... :) The code '19D52P' is a manufacturer's serial number that has the month/yr of production coded into the first 2 (or 3) characters. first number 1 is month (January), 2nd number (9) is for the year..
Ref: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11380.msg89790#msg89790
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Hurst Competition/Plus U.S. PAT. NO. 3216274 Shifter with the "3138" stamp. Anyone know exactly what the 19D52P stands for ?..a date of some sort ? I tried researching and found different opinions as to what it is. ??? and seen this number to be different on about every shifter. Some with more numbers and some with only 1 letter among the numbers. A date to me makes no sense as I've seen no consistency in this number/letter system.... unless I'm missing something.
Your shifter was built by Hurst during January of 1969... :) The code '19D52P' is a manufacturer's serial number that has the month/yr of production coded into the first 2 (or 3) characters. first number 1 is month (January), 2nd number (9) is for the year..
Ref: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11380.msg89790#msg89790
Hey thanks Gary. So that's good since that falls into place as well. Do you have any idea on the lever and rod numbers ?
Thanks again :)
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Hurst Competition/Plus U.S. PAT. NO. 3216274 Shifter with the "3138" stamp. Anyone know exactly what the 19D52P stands for ?..a date of some sort ? I tried researching and found different opinions as to what it is. ??? and seen this number to be different on about every shifter. Some with more numbers and some with only 1 letter among the numbers. A date to me makes no sense as I've seen no consistency in this number/letter system.... unless I'm missing something.
Your shifter was built by Hurst during January of 1969... :) The code '19D52P' is a manufacturer's serial number that has the month/yr of production coded into the first 2 (or 3) characters. first number 1 is month (January), 2nd number (9) is for the year..
Ref: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11380.msg89790#msg89790
Hey thanks Gary. So that's good since that falls into place as well. Do you have any idea on the lever and rod numbers ?
Thanks again :)
I can't provide exact verification of the rods, but I *think* you are probably OK on them (except for the blue wire 'clip'). :) Your rods appear to have similar bends as my rods, although I can't say for sure the middle length rod (and that might be due to the angle of your/my photos)..
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Hurst Competition/Plus U.S. PAT. NO. 3216274 Shifter with the "3138" stamp. Anyone know exactly what the 19D52P stands for ?..a date of some sort ? I tried researching and found different opinions as to what it is. ??? and seen this number to be different on about every shifter. Some with more numbers and some with only 1 letter among the numbers. A date to me makes no sense as I've seen no consistency in this number/letter system.... unless I'm missing something.
Your shifter was built by Hurst during January of 1969... :) The code '19D52P' is a manufacturer's serial number that has the month/yr of production coded into the first 2 (or 3) characters. first number 1 is month (January), 2nd number (9) is for the year..
Ref: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11380.msg89790#msg89790
Hey thanks Gary. So that's good since that falls into place as well. Do you have any idea on the lever and rod numbers ?
Thanks again :)
I can't provide exact verification of the rods, but I *think* you are probably OK on them (except for the blue wire 'clip'). :) Your rods appear to have similar bends as my rods, although I can't say for sure the middle length rod (and that might be due to the angle of your/my photos)..
Blue clip..what ? That's not original ? maybe production ran out of the metal clips..lol Yeah probably the angle of pic. They looked all the same as far as the crud and wear that was on them. They didn't looked to be new components. I've did some searching..not deep though, and I haven't really found any pics of those levers with the part numbers stamped on them. Why I'd like to know if anyone has a pic or what theirs may be like.
Thanks again for any and all input
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So from my understanding, Hurst made several shifters. For GM factory and aftermarket. Was there an aftermarket "Competition/Plus" as well ? and how are they different from one another ? Was it just the way the shift stick "5325" was attached, where one (factory) was a slip in and the aftermarket was a bolt on ?
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Hurst shifters that came on GM cars did not have the shift stop bolts where as the after market ones did. That is the most notable sign.
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Now your way ahead of me nice find.....
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Now your way ahead of me nice find.....
Thanks Rob :) Still sorting thru things and organizing it into other boxes.
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1111480 Distributor dated "9C4" ('69 March 4) "532" CCW Cam and "201" Vac Advance
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Another great quality piece. "Is there anything that you want me to give you from that box of parts I picked up?" seller just left it on the porch for me..... :D
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Another great quality piece. "Is there anything that you want me to give you from that box of parts I picked up?" seller just left it on the porch for me..... :D
Yeah Austin....the freak'n fly wheel..lol, yeah really ! I walked off with the wrong wheel. I grabbed the one next to mine and it just happens to be a fly wheel for a 396. Anyway, just got off the phone with the guy..and since I pass thru that area a few times a year, he's going to hold on till next time. No hurry, sure I'm not gonna be using anytime soon but I do want the piece.
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what a bummer. Well at least the flywheel isn't exactly holding you up from driving it right now. Maybe it will give you a boost to start getting everything cataloged and cleaned to get the car operational. As in work to get everything in order so all you need is the flywheel. I would try to somehow see the glass half full. I would also think to myself it was meant to be, and I would think I am thankful that I found a great car after looking hard. just my 2 cents for ya
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what a bummer. Well at least the flywheel isn't exactly holding you up from driving it right now. Maybe it will give you a boost to start getting everything cataloged and cleaned to get the car operational. As in work to get everything in order so all you need is the flywheel. I would try to somehow see the glass half full. I would also think to myself it was meant to be, and I would think I am thankful that I found a great car after looking hard. just my 2 cents for ya
True..true Austin, :) I was on the net almost every day, close to a year it seemed searching. Even thought I was being to anal at one time, I knew in my mind exactly what I was looking for but it was never there. I was about to give up. I had looked at several and began to realize that the ole saying "more on the road than produced" was holding true. Thanks God I have a great wife who learn a little about these along the way. But yeahhhh.. thankful, very thankful. It's been a job sorting parts but kinda cool at the same time..just to have the history sitting in your hand.
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Crank Pulley "3956668 CG"
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Alternator 1100837 dated 9 B 19 ('69 Feb 19) with original deep groove pulley and fan
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Darrell, can you show a straight on shot of the fan? Is it a "hook" type fan? My 8L9 837 is original and does not have a hook fan, Just wondering. Some say it must have, I disagree.
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My fello Buckeye :) Here it is for ya. I think you won that argument ;D No hook and it is original. You can just tell it's never been tampered with..Alternator, fan and pulley have the same color appearance from the years of grime.
Hope that helps
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Thanks, Yup, same as mine! I degrimed mine and rebuilt it myself to keep that aged look.
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Darrell, here's another one for you to check out, same exterior color combo as yours minus the vinyl top.
I'm really liking that Dusk Blue.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161395472829?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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<< 7 Blade Fan #3947772 dated "A69" (Jan '69) Anyone have a clue to what the 914087 next to the A69 is ? or what the "L" is that's next to the A69.. BTW that "L" is only on one of the 7 blades. >>
The 914087 is the supplier's internal part number for the fan. That clutch is a later Service replacement, made in 1971 ("G" = 1966, "H" = 1967, "I" = 1968, etc.).
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Ok, so the blade is correct but the clutch is a service replacement. Reason why no ink stamp. Last night I was able to take a flat head screw drive and push along the top surface of clutch..the orange paint just flaked off and only revealing the EASTON embossed stamp. No ink stamp..I knew then it was a replacement. :(
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Wow... I got a little motion sickness looking at all those bends in that old fuel line and fuel block ;D
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Original radiator cap. The words "TURN TIGHT" at the top are gone but you can still see the direction arrow. And the words "REMOVE SLOWLY" at bottom is still partially there. Amazing the cap was still around and not tossed.
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Ok, so the blade is correct but the clutch is a service replacement. Reason why no ink stamp. Last night I was able to take a flat head screw drive and push along the top surface of clutch..the orange paint just flaked off and only revealing the EASTON embossed stamp. No ink stamp..I knew then it was a replacement. :(
It originally had an ink stamp (all Eaton clutches did), but they either removed it when they painted the clutch or it just wore off.
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Ok, so the blade is correct but the clutch is a service replacement. Reason why no ink stamp. Last night I was able to take a flat head screw drive and push along the top surface of clutch..the orange paint just flaked off and only revealing the EASTON embossed stamp. No ink stamp..I knew then it was a replacement. :(
It originally had an ink stamp (all Eaton clutches did), but they either removed it when they painted the clutch or it just wore off.
Thanks John. So if I'm understanding you correctly.. The 7 blade fan is correct and dated A69 (Jan 69) and the fan clutch is a service replacement but it's an original EATON. Are you also saying that this clutch would of been INK STAMPED since it's an EATON ? you also stated the clutch was dated 1971.. how can you tell ??? I was looking for a letter somewhere but couldn't find one.
Thanks again
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Here's an added piece of documentation recommended by Len. The "SHIPPING DATA REPORT" really cool. I was guessing the 18th and it seem like it was the 20th. Knowing that and knowing that most TT were given 3-4 days in front of the production date, that makes perfect sense as to it being a 03B and not a 03C build. :)
Also in the beginning I had stated it was initially purchased from a Dealer called Liberty..That's what was relayed to me. The City was Liberty, NY and the dealer was Klapper Chevrolet-Olds. Anyone know if they're still around ?
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Darrel , Looks like you have most everything ,My question for you did they bag and tag all the hardware ? hopefully its not in one big box.... When you start sorting hardware let me know I may be able to tell you what bolt was where ... Use mine for a reference for you....Makes me wanna tear down & start on old yellar .....
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Darrel , Looks like you have most everything ,My question for you did they bag and tag all the hardware ? hopefully its not in one big box.... When you start sorting hardware let me know I may be able to tell you what bolt was where ... Use mine for a reference for you....Makes me wanna tear down & start on old yellar .....
Hey Rob, thanks for the offer. I may just be taking you up on that. I just bag and tagged everything over the last 2 days. Because there was Sooooooo many I only bag them by groups of quantity, length and thread size at this time.
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Can anyone tell me as to which of the lower Alternator bracket is the correct one. I just happen to have both in all the parts and both have different bends. Was one for the #837 Alt. while the other was for a standard Alt. ? Thought I'd throw in a pic of the top bracket as well.
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I thought this was a kicker. Check out the original seats. Really hard to appreciate them. Loaded with more grime..There's that grime again :o All still retain their natural shapes. The springs are not worn or broke. The undersides are discolored but who's gonna see that. The springs may look rusty from the pics but it's nothing more than a LIGHT surface dusting of rust. Not sure if I need to really do anything to them other than clean them again. I just did a rough cleaning and still need to get between the nooks and cranny's of the seams.
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annnnd the back seats. You can still see the grain pattern on front and backs. Almost like they've never been sat on.
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Here's the underside. Not that bad at all.
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seats look very nice
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I would run them.
looking good
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Very nice!!
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They are in great shape, just keep up with the elbow grease. Underside actually looks normal, don't worry about it. Try Murphy's Oil soap with a soft scrub brush (tooth) on them. Should cut through the remaining dirt. Don't worry if they appear dull at first, interior protectant will bring the shine back.
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Can anyone tell me as to which of the lower Alternator bracket is the correct one. I just happen to have both in all the parts and both have different bends. Was one for the #837 Alt. while the other was for a standard Alt. ? Thought I'd throw in a pic of the top bracket as well.
Darrell, I took the lower Alternator bracket off of my 07A X77 car this evening and it matches the one you have on top in your pics. My Alternator, water pump, deep grove pulleys, 772 fan, heads, intake etc are all the unrestored originals still on the engine so I have no reason to believe that my bracket is not the original also. I will post a picture of it later tonight or tomorrow.
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Took a few days off from the car. Busy working and getting some things caught up around the house. I guess I can't play every day :'( but I did sneak in a few minutes before heading back out of town for a few days.
Here's the original Fan Shroud # 3938615 and the Flat tip Oil Dip Stick with "US GM 6041-M-QUALITY MS OIL m" (Little hard to see, just could never get good lighting for pic)
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Darrell, here are the pictures of my lower alt bracket. Mine matches your top bracket on your first photo. Also notice the bushing in the middle hole. I'm not exactly sure yet how the smog pump bolts up as my smog was removed long ago. Maybe someone can shed some light on that. I would assume that is where the bushing/sleeve would be needed??
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Excellent Len, Thanks a mill. Just out of curiosity I wonder if the other bracket design was for those without a smog ? ???
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great find!!!!! u don't find them like this any more.
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great find!!!!! u don't find them like this any more.
Thanks Eddie, Luckily it was garaged long enough that everything is remained in excellent shape.
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Here are the original exhaust manifolds. A little bummed out about them because the p/n's and dates are unreadable. Though one of the dates appear to be "B 28 9". Story was they sat outside beside a shed for years because it had headers on it. So I'm sure if I want to run these or save them and run a pair that are more legible. But at least I have them.
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Nothing special but some more original parts. The more the merrier...lol Oil Pan and Windage tray
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Complete set of the "0" Rockers.
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great find and nice pics
on the shifter, I think someone may have added the Hurst aftermarket style spring clips
I see them a lot and unfortunately those clips damage the factory rubber molded bushings.
the AIM shows a washer and cotter pin on the forward levers with the rubber bushings and a washer and spring washer and cotter pin
on the reverse lever that had no rubber bushing.
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Well I guess I can't have everything ;D I was missing the original Water pump, had a replacement. Something had to go bad after 10-12 years on the road. So I was able to locate this long Water pump with the correct cast # 3953692 and date correct B 28 9 (Feb 28 '69)
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I think you lucked out finding both the smog & water pump. Its always a good feeling finding the correct parts.
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I think you lucked out finding both the smog & water pump. Its always a good feeling finding the correct parts.
Yeah Austin, Considering I was able to line up the dates within a couple weeks like all the originals... I'm pleased :) The Smog pump is a 07191S (March 12th '69) and I'll post though not the original as soon as I get it which should be a day or 2. I had to drop 5 large beans ($500) for the pair but I don't think I'd find them much cheaper than that. Plus the dates were right there and I didn't want to let them go.
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Darrell, did you get my email about Bill Mock? He is one of the best when it comes to water pump rebuild and restoration. I know he has many dates already in his stock that are rebuilt and ready to go. I think I bought my correct dated and coded big block water pump for my 66 chevelle for around $250. Rebuilt and ready to go. He uses American parts to rebuild and offers a lifetime warranty. But since you have yours already purchased you might contact him about rebuilding yours. You won't be disappointed. He is a great guy! I emailed you his contact info. Let me know if you didn't get it.
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Darrell, did you get my email about Bill Mock? He is one of the best when it comes to water pump rebuild and restoration. I know he has many dates already in his stock that are rebuilt and ready to go. I think I bought my correct dated and coded big block water pump for my 66 chevelle for around $250. Rebuilt and ready to go. He uses American parts to rebuild and offers a lifetime warranty. But since you have yours already purchased you might contact him about rebuilding yours. You won't be disappointed. He is a great guy! I emailed you his contact info. Let me know if you didn't get it.
Hey Len, Yes I did and thanks, I saved so I can give him a shout.
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Re the VIN stamp on the engine.. Anything is possible, but not having one is not probable... :)
I have emails regarding 2 and have seen an additional 2 DZ blocks which had been vatted, no paint on them, built between mid March and mid April with no VIN anywhere, not in any angle, any light, going so far as to invert colors and use filters in photoshop, obviously there were many Z's built during the period however to find between 2 and possibly 4 from my postings about this years ago illustrates they are around.
Perhaps the confusion resulted from the phasing in of Firebirds to Norwood from Lordstown in April of 69, can you imagine? Pacecars, COPO's, Z28's, RA Firebirds and then in May Trams Ams... Holy crap the number of parts on the assembly line would likely increase by 30% is that correct?
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Re the VIN stamp on the engine.. Anything is possible, but not having one is not probable... :)
I have emails regarding 2 and have seen an additional 2 DZ blocks which had been vatted, no paint on them, built between mid March and mid April with no VIN anywhere, not in any angle, any light, going so far as to invert colors and use filters in photoshop, obviously there were many Z's built during the period however to find between 2 and possibly 4 from my postings about this years ago illustrates they are around.
Perhaps the confusion resulted from the phasing in of Firebirds to Norwood from Lordstown in April of 69, can you imagine? Pacecars, COPO's, Z28's, RA Firebirds and then in May Trams Ams... Holy crap the number of parts on the assembly line would likely increase by 30% is that correct?
Those VIN stamps in the cast surface are EXTREMELY difficult to see and read, vatted or not. it took me a LONG time to be able to see mine, cleaned, using varying lights, etc before I saw one character; once you see a character the others begin to be seen (I think by our brain processors using correlation techniques :).. it took me even longer before I was able to get proper lighting, exposure, etc to get a decent photograph of it.
Also, I believe one could have gone to a Chevrolet dealer in March of 1969, and bought a 302 short block assembly (or a bare block); the pad would not be stamped with anything, but it would have appropriate casting numbers and casting date in the block...
but yes, it's possible (NOT probable) that one could have been missed.. people (most people) are human and make mistakes.. :) 2 or 3 missed blocks for VIN stamping.. from how many thousands?... is a very improbable event.
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Maybe the ones I saw were over the counter replacements, the one I purchased could have been a fitted block it was std bore with pistons and rods no crank, really did not look like it had been run. Because I had a complete +.020 12.5 pistons on eagle rods which were large and small end equalized with the original 1178 knife-edged and balanced we just bored it .020 and used that assembly.
I have the near perfect std bore pistons and rods boeshielded and wrapped in neutral PH paper up in the attic.
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possibly.. and it is possible the stampers just missed one..
I've got a nice original set of std pistons too... possibly a number of us do, who kept our engines alive long enough to need boring 30.. :)
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Could this PVC and hose with the 2 black pinch clamps be the originals ? I understand that the PVC could of always been changed for a replacement but what about the hose ? There's 3 ridge like lines down the hose with no other markings. Was this a common GM type hose or did they usually have a p/n printed on them ?
Thanks
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based on the other survivor thread, I would say that is the original, with the original clamps. Great find, I think I may need one!
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based on the other survivor thread, I would say that is the original, with the original clamps. Great find, I think I may need one!
Hmmm.. I guess I better hide it...lol
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Original Winters Intake and Carb. A tad dirty I'd say ;D Anyone have an idea to why there's a "Q" stamped on the Intake (last pic) ? I've seen other Intakes without.
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interesting different water neck, ( no provision for return spring). Wonder why they swapped that off.
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interesting different water neck, ( no provision for return spring). Wonder why they swapped that off.
Yeah I have the original water neck coming up ! :) That's an old chrome one
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Chrome water neck of corse the easy way to customize the engine compartment back then....
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Original Winters Intake and Carb. A tad dirty I'd say ;D Anyone have an idea to why there's a "Q" stamped on the Intake (last pic) ? I've seen other Intakes without.
Inspection stamp... http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8598.0
Paul
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Chrome water neck of course the easy way to customize the engine compartment back then....
LMAO... heck yeah !!
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Here we go, the #3877660 Alum housing... let's pitch that chrome one !
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Original Winters Intake and Carb. A tad dirty I'd say ;D Anyone have an idea to why there's a "Q" stamped on the Intake (last pic) ? I've seen other Intakes without.
Inspection stamp... http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8598.0
Paul
That's interesting. So would it be safe to say that not all Intakes received this "inspection" stamp since I've seen some without ? And if that's the case then were they stamped periodically just for quality control every so often ?
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Looks like you got a real keeper there, nice original stuff Darrell.
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Hey Darrell,
Thank you for posting all the detail pictures of your Z/28. Could I request some more?
I am pretty sure your PCV, hose, and clamps are original. I would like to see the PCV valve to see what if any markings are on it. Also the choke vacuum pull off front and back, and the heads of the coil mounting and distributor clamp bolts.
I am kind of partial to the paint code too.
Mike
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Hey Darrell,
Thank you for posting all the detail pictures of your Z/28. Could I request some more?
I am pretty sure your PCV, hose, and clamps are original. I would like to see the PCV valve to see what if any markings are on it. Also the choke vacuum pull off front and back, and the heads of the coil mounting and distributor clamp bolts.
I am kind of partial to the paint code too.
Mike
Hey Mike, by your username I'm guessing you are playing a favorite ;) May I ask, do you have a Dusk Z ? and yeah n.p. on the request. I'm currently at work today (work 24 hrs as a Firefighter) and won't be home until tomorrow morning. Funny you should ask because after I posted the intake pics I noticed the bolts and also thought of checking the heads out. Check back tomorrow and I'll see if I can't have all yours answers with pics.
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Looks like you got a real keeper there, nice original stuff Darrell.
Thanks Bentley, yeah I'm very happy. Other than the 2 components I had mentioned earlier, I think I just about hit every nail on the head.
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Here is the new rebuilt devaned smog pump that fits my dates. Julian date "0719" (March 12 '69). Received it yesterday. The newest part I now have..lol, looks to clean ! I already have the diverter valve and extension to post
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Hey Darrell,
Thank you for posting all the detail pictures of your Z/28. Could I request some more?
I am pretty sure your PCV, hose, and clamps are original. I would like to see the PCV valve to see what if any markings are on it. Also the choke vacuum pull off front and back, and the heads of the coil mounting and distributor clamp bolts.
I am kind of partial to the paint code too.
Mike
Mike, Could you post a couple pics of your Dusk Z if you don't mind. Would like to get a better view.
Thanks
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Could this PVC and hose with the 2 black pinch clamps be the originals ? I understand that the PVC could of always been changed for a replacement but what about the hose ? There's 3 ridge like lines down the hose with no other markings. Was this a common GM type hose or did they usually have a p/n printed on them ?
Thanks
Hi Darrell....that little PCV valve and hose might be worth as much as $400.00. I bid over $300.00 for a PCV valve just like yours and didn't win the auction. So hang on to what you have there. As to the hose....I have my original 1968 hose and it doesn't have any ridges, it's smooth,. The ridges could be a '69 thing though.
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Original Winters Intake and Carb. A tad dirty I'd say ;D Anyone have an idea to why there's a "Q" stamped on the Intake (last pic) ? I've seen other Intakes without.
Inspection stamp... http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8598.0
Paul
That's interesting. So would it be safe to say that not all Intakes received this "inspection" stamp since I've seen some without ? And if that's the case then were they stamped periodically just for quality control every so often ?
Correct.
Paul
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There's 3 ridge like lines down the hose with no other markings. Was this a common GM type hose or did they usually have a p/n printed on them ?
As to the hose....I have my original 1968 hose and it doesn't have any ridges, it's smooth,. The ridges could be a '69 thing though.
The ridges/grooves (as with all Chevrolet hoses) identified the supplier; there could be several different patterns/configurations depending on time of the year, plant location, etc.
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Hey Mike
Here's some of the things you requested. Since the distrib and coil brack was already pulled I can only guess that they are correct. Maybe someone can tell us for sure if these type head markings were used. Hope this helps. The Distributor hold down clamp bolt looks like a "WB" and the Coil bracket has "LAWSON"
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The PVC with the markings that go completely around the body "AC SPARK PLUG TYPE CV-746 C" which I believe was the original markings but who knows if it's the original or a replacement at some time. I also read the Z's PVC had a PURPLE hue to them. Not sure if that's true or not.
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Original Gas Cap
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Original Heater Box with original AC Blower Fan dated Blower Fan "2 69" (Fed 69)
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Few views of the Carb Choke Pull Off. Original and a little on the rusty side. Good thing I can still find these parts for replacement.
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Looks like that vacuum came off the Titanic!
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Is that 'Florida garage rust'? OR was that carb outside in the weather for a long while??
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Was there a console with gauges? If so what oil line fitting set up is installed? Seems to be some speculation on what is actually correct.
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Is that 'Florida garage rust'? OR was that carb outside in the weather for a long while??
That's the weird thing about the carb.. The Carb itself is in excellent condition except for that choke pull off and the rod.
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Was there a console with gauges? If so what oil line fitting set up is installed? Seems to be some speculation on what is actually correct.
It's a console with gauges. I'll have to check out the bottom of the gauges Tuesday. That will be my first chance to look and report back :)
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Was there a console with gauges? If so what oil line fitting set up is installed? Seems to be some speculation on what is actually correct.
It's a console with gauges. I'll have to check out the bottom of the gauges Tuesday. That will be my first chance to look and report back :)
What fitting is installed on the back of the engine block Darrell?
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Was there a console with gauges? If so what oil line fitting set up is installed? Seems to be some speculation on what is actually correct.
It's a console with gauges. I'll have to check out the bottom of the gauges Tuesday. That will be my first chance to look and report back :)
What fitting is installed on the back of the engine block Darrell?
Thanks Gary, I should of asked that. I was gonna take a pic of the block and the gauges. Wasn't sure what connections you were talking about. Check back Tuesday afternoon if you can. Unfortunately the car and parts are sitting at a warehouse and I'm working tomorrow :( and will be there Tues.
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Original Washer Jar, Cap and Hose (with ridges along the hose)
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Original Cam cast #3849347, part #3849346
Couple of questions:
1) Couldn't find a part number stamped anywhere, is there and did I overlook it ?
2) Like the crank, a yellow paint band brushed around it, why did GM do this ?
3) The 3 bolts marked "N" on the heads look original. I know GM used several suppliers, so is there a list of all possible bolts GM used during assembly on all parts ?
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Just returned from an overseas trip and have enjoyed reading this entire thread - what a great find Darrell! Please keep the detailed pictures coming.
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Very cool find,Darrel! Beautiful color combination. Nice job documenting it with the pictures, too.
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Original Cam cast #3849347, part #3849346
Couple of questions:
1) Couldn't find a part number stamped anywhere, is there and did I overlook it ?
2) Like the crank, a yellow paint band brushed around it, why did GM do this ?
3) The 3 bolts marked "N" on the heads look original. I know GM used several suppliers, so is there a list of all possible bolts GM used during assembly on all parts ?
1. You won't find a part number - only the core casting number (which was unique to each Chevy camshaft, to minimize required machining).
2. Painted band was for quick in-process identification (vs. reading the casting number).
3. Various Corvette publications and NCRS Judging Guides call out the most common expected headmarks to be seen on each fastener application. For Camaros, do you have Jerry MacNeish's book?
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Original Cam cast #3849347, part #3849346
Couple of questions:
1) Couldn't find a part number stamped anywhere, is there and did I overlook it ?
2) Like the crank, a yellow paint band brushed around it, why did GM do this ?
3) The 3 bolts marked "N" on the heads look original. I know GM used several suppliers, so is there a list of all possible bolts GM used during assembly on all parts ?
1. You won't find a part number - only the core casting number (which was unique to each Chevy camshaft, to minimize required machining).
2. Painted band was for quick in-process identification (vs. reading the casting number).
3. Various Corvette publications and NCRS Judging Guides call out the most common expected headmarks to be seen on each fastener application. For Camaros, do you have Jerry MacNeish's book?
I just received Jerry's Definitive 4th edition a few days ago and just started reading. Great info and thanks, I'll check it out.
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Original Heater Core "Harrison" dated 69C ('69 March) Still in pretty good condition :)
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Ok.. Back to the block, Sorry guys for jumping around. Some MUCH better picks of the DZ stamp and other areas. Also some more of the crazy blue paint. That's some strong a$$ adhesive in the paint.. all those years and to never peal off and get mixed into the oil. WOW !
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And some more blue paint. On both ends. I imagine John Z could answer once again.. why the blue ? So assembly line workers knew what was coming down the line ? Did certain blocks get certain colors.. 302 = blue, 396 another, 307 another and so forth ?
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I thought I could punch it up some, but would need the original.... Looks good, better to have a shot a little ways back to see factory broaching etc. THEN a super close up.. Anyway, for what it's worth.. Danny
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Was there a console with gauges? If so what oil line fitting set up is installed? Seems to be some speculation on what is actually correct.
It's a console with gauges. I'll have to check out the bottom of the gauges Tuesday. That will be my first chance to look and report back :)
Hey Gary, unfortunately the fitting was already removed. Bummer. Exactly what should it look like for my future reference
Thanks
What fitting is installed on the back of the engine block Darrell?
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Darrell,
Nice find and mostly all original to boot, congrats. Can you please post a couple detailed pics of the master cylinder lid / wording. Dave
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Dave, here is a thread from a few months ago about correct master cylinder lids with pics and wording. Jerry M. told me that mine is the correct factory lid for my car and it matches Gary's (69Z28-RS) and is exactly like the one in his picture. Hopefully Darrell also has his which will be nice to compare with.
Hope this helps.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12201.0
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Dave, here is a thread from a few months ago about correct master cylinder lids with pics and wording. Jerry M. told me that mine is the correct factory lid for my car and it matches Gary's (69Z28-RS) and is exactly like the one in his picture. Hopefully Darrell also has his which will be nice to compare with.
Hope this helps.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12201.0
Are we (CRG) in concurence that there are more than one correct lid, an early and late? I am confident my lid is original and several posts concur although it is different from Gary's style. Sorry, not intending to Hi-jack, just wanting clarification.
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Was there a console with gauges? If so what oil line fitting set up is installed? Seems to be some speculation on what is actually correct.
It's a console with gauges. I'll have to check out the bottom of the gauges Tuesday. That will be my first chance to look and report back :)
Hey Gary, unfortunately the fitting was already removed. Bummer. Exactly what should it look like for my future reference
Thanks
What fitting is installed on the back of the engine block Darrell?
Darrell, about a year ago plus a few months Lloyd, Edgemontvillage, started this post about the console oil line fitting to block. See link.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11068.0;all
Look down to post #75. This is what is said to be correct now and not what is being shown at the start of Lloyds post. At this point I personally don't have a clue what is correct now.
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Bentley, Pleeeease ! Not hi-jacking at all, good to know. Dave I'll post a pic in a few hours when I'm at the car, thanks for asking about it.
Thanks guys..add what ever to help clears things up.
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Ok guys...Drum roll ;D For what it's worth, which I'd like to know. Here is my cover after some wire brushing. When I first looked at it, it appeared to be a chrome cover. Was painted with what looked like chrome paint over Black and the lettering was lost under the layers of paint. I instantly had a sad face. So out came the wire brush and after a few letters started peeping thru my sad face turned happy face ;D
Has there been any conclusion on these covers. My cover follows a pretty good pattern as to the rest of the car as far as the dirt, grime and grease and looking untouched. So I definitely believe it's the born with cover.
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And another update. While messing around with the Master cylinder cover I decided to re-look at a few things again. One being the Coil Spring decal. So I took a wet cloth and rub lightly and this is what I uncovered. Earlier I had posted a pic of a grungy looking tag on the coil and presumed it to be a "YF" tag. Turns out they're both "EY" 3925814 tags.
Question ..... Why 2 different codes for a 69 Z ? was one for earlier production and the other for late prod. ? or for X77 versus X33 ?
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Like Bentley said, looks like there was an early and late lid. Now I wonder when the change took place?
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Re your coil spring question: Which spring that was used is a function of 'weight', which boils down to the option weights.
My '69 Z28 -RS, with cowl hood, console, deluxe interior/exterior trim also has the EY springs... There's a table under the coil spring section in the CRG data which provides the formulas to determine what is correct for each car/option combination.
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Was there a console with gauges? If so what oil line fitting set up is installed? Seems to be some speculation on what is actually correct.
It's a console with gauges. I'll have to check out the bottom of the gauges Tuesday. That will be my first chance to look and report back :)
Hey Gary, unfortunately the fitting was already removed. Bummer. Exactly what should it look like for my future reference
Thanks
What fitting is installed on the back of the engine block Darrell?
Darrell, about a year ago plus a few months Lloyd, Edgemontvillage, started this post about the console oil line fitting to block. See link.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11068.0;all
Look down to post #75. This is what is said to be correct now and not what is being shown at the start of Lloyds post. At this point I personally don't have a clue what is correct now.
Gary, That's interesting and I'm sorry I couldn't add a little light to what was the correct one used. So is it possible that both "PH" and "Paragon" may have been used ? Maybe some of the others can see if they have an original and post a pic of theirs... and does it has a steel line or nylon line running to it.
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I've been a little busy ....ok ! a lot busy and haven't had a chance to add much lately. I'm soaking a gal. container of bolts, nuts and washers in degreaser so I can separate and get a look at the heads.
Here's the Coil Bracket that was fastened to my intake. Now I don't about the radio capacitor attached. I don't know what is or isn't correct. And were there several available that would be correct since one could of ordered anything from AM radio to 8-track ?
Was there also another Coil Bracket, one that was raked at a greater angle for clearance of the ZL2 cowl induction (bigger in diameter) ?
Thanks
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That one appears correct to me.. both the condenser and the bracket and screw.. It's difficult to see the rake angle on your bracket, based on your photo..
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That one appears correct to me.. both the condenser and the bracket and screw.
And the star washer! :)
Paul
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That one appears correct to me.. both the condenser and the bracket and screw.
And the star washer! :)
Paul
So the star washer is an all GO ? I guess that's a commonly lost thing huh. :)
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That one appears correct to me.. both the condenser and the bracket and screw.
And the star washer! :)
Paul
So the star washer is an all GO ? I guess that's a commonly lost thing huh. :)
Yes and yes.
Paul
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My Timing Chain cover. A little hard to read the "68" but Dated 12 68. Can a 03B build have a Dec 68 cover and be ok ???
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Can a 03B build have a Dec 68 cover and be ok????
Why sure. It is better than having a 12B build with a 3/69 cover, which would NOT be ok.
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:D
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Original Delco Remy "MADE IN USA" Voltage Regulator with Radio Capacitor. Part no. 1119515 stamped on the mounting flange. No markings on original bolt heads. It'd be cool if it's still good ? If not, I'll keep with the other electrical components and store away.
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Better view of the Radio Capacitor #1964086 DR 5MF
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Original Radiator Core Support with the Voltage Reg/Radio Cap and the Windshield Wash Jar Bracket
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Darrell, there should also be a date on the left side of the capacitor bolt. It should say 12V N and right below that maybe a 9A,B or C if it is the original for your car. It sure looks like it should be the original.
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Windshield Wash Jar Bracket with it's 3 washerhead bolts. Appears to have the letter "D" on all 3 heads
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Darrell, there should also be a date on the left side of the capacitor bolt. It should say 12V N and right below that maybe a 9A,B or C if it is the original for your car. It sure looks like it should be the original.
Hey Len, I did see the 12V on the other side of the capacitor bracket. I didn't pay no mind to it. Now I'll have to check it out again. Darn it !! I thought I was getting all the pics..guess not ..lol
Thanks
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Voltage Reg "12 V" I missed the rest of it :'( and what's the 9A, B, or C stand for ?
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you might have to remove the capacitor to see it. 9 would be the year and the letter would be the month
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and what's the 9A, B, or C stand for?
9=1969 year A=jan,B=Feb...and so on. That is what he (we) want to see. Get your camera out again and remove the capacitor.
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you might have to remove the capacitor to see it. 9 would be the year and the letter would be the month
OH YEAHHHHH ! I'll need to have that. An update to follow.
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Here's the original Battery Junction Block. Call me crazy, but I've seen guys asking $100-$150 for one of these on one of those selling web sites. That's insane !
BTW, just a reminder. All these dated parts are to my 03B X77 build date. Which the GM production date was March 20th '69
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Do you have the nut for the junction block ?
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The Washerhead Bolts attach the fender to the top of the radiator core support. The heads have an "Anchor" on them.
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I think ,I would clan up that voltage regulator & run it .... I am sure there is someone that restores them ....
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Darrell ,Get all your stuff cataloged then come & do mine ....
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Do you have the nut for the junction block ?
Hey Rob, Yeah Right...lol
Yes I have it. It's a washer fixed to a nut. I had removed it to make sure it wasn't rusted on. I noticed after I posted my pics that I wasn't showing the nut/washer... ugh ! I'll have to slip another updated pic in here.
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Regulator very probably will work fine. They last.
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The regulator is a mechanical unit; it has points that can be cleaned which usually lets it work again ....
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Thanks guys in reference to the Volt Reg. That's good to know.
Here's the original Control Arm Lower Bumpers p/n 3928362. The LH (drivers) side part no. was turned in toward the coil spring. Making it hard to get the number since I haven't disassembled yet. But you can make out the last few numbers and letters ;D
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Your lwr control arm bumper seems to be original (although very deteriorated) .. same PN as mine... the '46' in your case, '1' in mine... would seem to be some type of date coding...? below photo is my original.. PN 3928362 FK
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Your lwr control arm bumper seems to be original (although very deteriorated) .. same PN as mine... the '46' in your case, '1' in mine... would seem to be some type of date coding...? below photo is my original.. PN 3928362 FK
Gary both of mine show the "FK", my RH shows the numbers 46 after and the LH appears to be "55" as you have a "1". Not sure why they differ or how, but leads me to believe there may be other numbers as well.
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typically those kind of numbers are a date code..might be week of the year (although the 55 example says NO to that), most probably is the Julian date... or possibly a mold number?
The PN is the 7 digit code.. FK might indicate the manufacturer, and the following number the date code or mold number.
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typically those kind of numbers are a date code..might be week of the year (although the 55 example says NO to that), most probably is the Julian date... or possibly a mold number?
The PN is the 7 digit code.. FK might indicate the manufacturer, and the following number the date code or mold number.
If they're Julian dated then I'd be happy with that. The 46 would be Feb 15 (Sat) and 55 would be Feb 24 (Mon) I could live with that. :)
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Ref. to my 03B build. The dated Voltage Reg is "9C" (March) and is hidden under the capacitor bracket.
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typically those kind of numbers are a date code..might be week of the year (although the 55 example says NO to that), most probably is the Julian date... or possibly a mold number?
The PN is the 7 digit code.. FK might indicate the manufacturer, and the following number the date code or mold number.
If they're Julian dated then I'd be happy with that. The 46 would be Feb 15 (Sat) and 55 would be Feb 24 (Mon) I could live with that. :)
[/quote
The dates might be good, but IMO, your bumpers need replacing... :) PS. I've been told when you need to do necessary safety related updated to your car, put the original parts in a bag and keep them.... :)
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typically those kind of numbers are a date code..might be week of the year (although the 55 example says NO to that), most probably is the Julian date... or possibly a mold number?
The PN is the 7 digit code.. FK might indicate the manufacturer, and the following number the date code or mold number.
If they're Julian dated then I'd be happy with that. The 46 would be Feb 15 (Sat) and 55 would be Feb 24 (Mon) I could live with that. :)
[/quote
The dates might be good, but IMO, your bumpers need replacing... :) PS. I've been told when you need to do necessary safety related updated to your car, put the original parts in a bag and keep them.... :)
That's my full intentions. Any part that can't be saved or used for safety purposes will be bagged, tagged and stored away. It would be nice if I'm able to find an original set of those bumpers. I'll most definitely be searching
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Those are cavity numbers in case there is a problem the particular offending mold cavity can be isolated.
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Those are cavity numbers in case there is a problem the particular offending mold cavity can be isolated.
Thanks James. Good to know ...so any numbers after the p/n will be correct to use.
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Nothing of great deal, just the correct factory Fan Shroud Bracket and the mounting hardware. I did not notice any markings on the heads other than 3 hash marks. They also appear to be the same size as the mounting bolts that affix the top/inside of the fender to the top of the Radiator core support.
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Steering Column with a few markings that I assume are dates. There's an "9 A 066". Would the "9 A" be year and month (Jan '69) ? and what about the "066". There's also a number "46" stamped near the base.
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I'm also guessing this is dated as "9B21" (Feb 21 '69). Sems washer bolts with star washers
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Tail Light Housings still in great shape with mounting tabs intact. Will just need some TLC to the insides with new paint.
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Reference to my 03B build. Here's all 4 of my YH dated Ralley Rims. 1 is dated 92 26 ('69 Feb 26) and 3 are dated 92 27 ('69 Feb 27). No spare...bummer ! Oh well I guess 4 are better than none.
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Could these possibly be factory Speaker Coves ? They're made of metal and have the same speaker shape images on the underside of them. If they are, does anyone know what the factory color should of been ?
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same as the dash top suede finish in dark blue.
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Could these possibly be factory Speaker Coves ? They're made of metal and have the same speaker shape images on the underside of them. If they are, does anyone know what the factory color should of been ?
They sure look like factory. Probably the same color as the rear package try cover...or maybe black??
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Did originals have the through holes for the screws (like the ones Darrell pictured) or were there studs?
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Did originals have the through holes for the screws (like the ones Darrell pictured) or were there studs?
I think the holes are correct with screws, not absolutey sure. They are factory correct covers. Two would indicate stereo, I believe. If only one, it would be U69 RH side only.
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Did originals have the through holes for the screws (like the ones Darrell pictured) or were there studs?
I think the holes are correct with screws, not absolutey sure. They are factory correct covers. Two would indicate stereo, I believe. If only one, it would be U69 RH side only.
Agreed. My Judge had the same speaker covers which had screw holes and the covers were black. Can't remember if the screws where chrome or not though.
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A little history update.
I just had the pleasure of speaking with the original owner of my Z/28, Jack Levy. Jack who is now retired and lives in Tucson Arizona with his wife. Jack bought this Z/28 brand new as a graduating gift to himself out of high school in Manhattan. Jack then enlisted into the Army and was stationed in Fort Knox, Ky. He purchased the Z with power steering for the sole purpose of running the car in Motocross races and p.s. was much needed. He'd run it in Louiville Ky and across the river in Cincinnati Ohio. Said he won a few 1st places but mostly all 2nd places only because there was another fella that was running a 302 boss, and that guy had more money than brains..lol As he was blowing up a motor monthly. Jack said if he ran the Z to 6500 rpm's the other guy ran his Boss to 7000 and if Jack ran it 7500 the guy ran his Boss to 8000. Jack said it was the only car he and his wife had. So it was a daily driver off the track
In the end, after the Military Jack and his wife had moved to Denver then Tampa. With one child, the 2nd on the way and no job Jack needed a car that was better on fuel than his 8 mpg Z. In 1974 Jack traded it in on a 4 door, 4 cylinder Honda for what was a great deal at the time.... a whopping $740.00 trade in value
It was only a few years ago that Jack said he threw away the original window sticker and Bill Of Sale from '69. Now how cool would that of been to have landed those 2 pieces.
We are going to stay in contact, he was thrilled to hear that the car was still around. I'm to send him pics of it now and as the restoration moves along. Jack would like to see it on day as he comes to the Florida area once in awhile. I'm hoping one day to get a picture of the Z with the original owner and me.
Jack said when he gets back home in about a month (travels a lot being retired) he's going to see if he can dig up more pics of the car when he owned it.
Thought I'd share that little update to the history.
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It's great that you were able to talk with your car's original owner. Hopefully he will be able to send you some of his old pics of it. I was able to talk with the original owner of my '69 Z and get some history on it. He sent me some photos of it when he had only had it 2 months. I and a lot of others I'm sure enjoy finding out as much as possible about our car's early life.
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Man that's great Darrell. Between all of the original parts and history that you have and are continuing to gather for your car, it just keeps getting better and better.
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Is this the Vacuum Advance tube/hose to carb line ? Still sorting and was among some of the parts.
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Yes, it is.. and it appears to be correct and original.
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Darrell,
Are there any ribs running the length on the vacuum hoses?
Mike
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Darrell,
Are there any ribs running the length on the vacuum hoses?
Mike
Yes there are Mike
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When you get time could you post a picture of the ribs?
Thanks!
Mike
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When you get time could you post a picture of the ribs?
Thanks!
Mike
Yes, I'll post tomorrow afternoon when I get home.
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Vacuum Advance Hose and Tube
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good pics. I know they make the rubber hose with the white line on it, but do they make it in a ribbed style?
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good pics. I know they make the rubber hose with the white line on it, but do they make it in a ribbed style?
This hose has both, ribbed and white on the other side. See pics on pg 17
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I understand, just wanting to know if it is available still.
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Great pic....how many raised ribs? I have a reproduction from LI Corvettes and on this repro I count 7 raised ribs.
Thanks,
Mike
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Great pic....how many raised ribs? I have a reproduction from LI Corvettes and on this repro I count 7 raised ribs.
Thanks,
Mike
Only 3 raised ribs
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The original Brake Booster Hose Bracket
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I understand, just wanting to know if it is available still.
I see the 3 rib is on eBay at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-81-GM-Vacuum-Hose-Correct-White-Stripe-5-32-with-3-ribs-SOLD-BY-THE-FOOT-/200908713411?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACamaro&hash=item2ec717adc3&vxp=mtr
Mike
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Plug Wire Stands. Looks to have been painted once before. Guessing when the block was repainted. Is that a typical stamp mark in the smaller stand ?
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I understand, just wanting to know if it is available still.
I see the 3 rib is on eBay at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-81-GM-Vacuum-Hose-Correct-White-Stripe-5-32-with-3-ribs-SOLD-BY-THE-FOOT-/200908713411?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACamaro&hash=item2ec717adc3&vxp=mtr
Mike
That's good to know, Thanks Mike
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Throttle Rod and Adjustable Sleeve. A little TLC on all these parts and we'll be good to go ;D
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Hoping some of the little things such as the bushing and sleeve for the Throttle Rod Assy above are lost in this bucket somewhere. Will most likely buy new anyway but it'd be nice to still have the original for ole keep sake ;D
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I understand, just wanting to know if it is available still.
I see the 3 rib is on eBay at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-81-GM-Vacuum-Hose-Correct-White-Stripe-5-32-with-3-ribs-SOLD-BY-THE-FOOT-/200908713411?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACamaro&hash=item2ec717adc3&vxp=mtr
Mike
Hey Mike good find, I put that in my watch list, even though I only need a few more inches......
I know I know thats what she said.... :D
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Reference to my 03B build: Horns 298 dated 1 C 9 (1 week March '69) and 290 dated 2 C 9 (2 week March '69).
Horns are typically date as Year-Month-Week. Mine are dated backwards. There have been others found to be dated backwards also in this general time frame in March. Does anyone else has originals dated backwards during this time or another ?
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The PVC with the markings that go completely around the body "AC SPARK PLUG TYPE CV-746 C" which I believe was the original markings but who knows if it's the original or a replacement at some time. I also read the Z's PVC had a PURPLE hue to them. Not sure if that's true or not.
any pics of PCV with hose removed? supposedly should be the Spun one looks like from bottom pic and thanks for all the detailed photos! good stuff and nice score
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The original 3 Windshield Wiper Motor mounting screws with an odd looking head marking. ???
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The original Windshield Wiper Motor and the white pump. Should there be a stamped date anywhere ? I was looking but didn't see one. More interesting looking bolt
head markings.
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The original Windshield Wiper Motor and the white pump. Should there be a stamped date anywhere ? I was looking but didn't see one. More interesting looking bolt
head markings.
see if you can clean the paint off the sticker on the wiper motor. It will be date coded
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You might want to know what lies on that sticker before you start cleaning off the paint.. Below is a link from a year or so ago, where we collected information from a number of Camaros on this board and tabulated the data..
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11121.0
Gary W.
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Well this was as good as I could get to the date code. I used some water and rubbed a little. Was afraid to use any chemicals to remove the black paint that was sprayed over it and possibly wiping away the letters entirely. I don't think there was much of a win-win solution to get to the code. A little bummed but it's there. :(
It's p/n 5045572 dated "053 9 6 A" (Julian date Feb 22 Saturday)
I also noticed my motor is stamped from Rochester NY and not Dayton. Also mine has both the p/n stamped onto the side and the sticker. Was this common practice to have both ?
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The original 3 Windshield Wiper Motor mounting screws with an odd looking head marking. ???
That's Elco, in Rockford, IL. One of the larger suppliers of fasteners. Just rows and rows of headers and rolling machines in the plant.
http://elcofastener.com/
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As I was panning thru the A.I.M. I ran across page 472 "Special Coupe Equip (302 cu in) Accel Control". I noticed the wire stand bracket facing the firewall. I posted my brackets on #267 pg 18 and it's upright. From other searches I see that others are upright also so I'm assuming I have the original ones. If so then was this an AIM preliminary print or an early or late change ? Just curious ... ???
Thanks
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The parts you showed are correct.
The engineering 'sketches' shown in the AIM, are not intended to be 'perfect' indications of the part, as some drawings are 'updated from year to year, etc. That drawing was released on 29 April 1968, well before the introduction of the '69 Camaros, and possibly even before the part you question was finalized.
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Great pic....how many raised ribs? I have a reproduction from LI Corvettes and on this repro I count 7 raised ribs.
Thanks,
Mike
I ordered a couple of feet of the hose on ebay (Inline Tube), and received it today. It has 3 raised ribs (very slight ribs), with the white stripe about 90-100 degree away from the ribs (around the hose). I dug out my original and checked it carefully.. The original has 7 more-distinct ribs, with the white stripe within those 7 ribs. I've got photos of both if there's interest, but I'm a bit confused by 69Zee statement that his 'assumed original' has only 3 ribs? I'd like to see closeup photos of both the 3-rib one found by 69Zee.. AND the 7 rib one sold by LI Corvettes if possible. LI has a good reputation in the corvette world, and based on what I found with my original '69 Z28 hose, I'm leaning to the 7 rib being the original one, UNLESS these hoses were interchangeably used throughout the year? My car is an 09C and my 'assumed original hose was on it when I purchased the car in 1976 (long before any repros for Camaros)..
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I would like to see pics as well, thanks for looking into this Gary.
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Here is the LI Corvette 7 rib hose. The white stripe is not within the ribs.
Notice the label for the LI hose is for 63-67. Maybe after 67 is was different -or- there were different versions depending on the supplier?
Same question for the while stripe, was it by chance where it was applied to the hose?
Mike
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I'll see if I can't get better pics tomorrow and post. I'll try to include the measurement widths of the white stripe and width between each rib. But for now, I have this pic which is also the same from post #259. It's a smooth hose with only 3 raised ribs. If you look toward the bottom of the hose you can see the beginning of the white stripe. It's only about 90 degrees off from the ribs or even a little less than 90.
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Original Head Bolts with head markings "A", "M" and "C"
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The rubber lines have different # of ribs to indicate which supplier.
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The rubber lines have different # of ribs to indicate which supplier.
Kurt,
That makes sense about the number of lines. Probably the same for the windshield washer hoses too?
IYO, do you think the 3 line and 7 line could have co-existed in the same model year? Also, I would think different suppliers between NOR and LOS?
Mike
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Oh yeah. Several different lines in different plants. They were a true commodity.
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Reference to the Vac Advance hose:
Ok, interesting enough... I discovered something else. Mine actually has 4 ribs in total. 3 ribs together, then a white stripe 90 degrees away, then 1 more rib at another 90 degrees.
The first pic shows the 3 ribs and the white stripe to the right.. (2nd pic) shows the bottom of the hose which has 1 rib. Could this still be original ?
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The Vac Advance hose is 3/8 Dia. with the stripe being 1/8 wide (pic 1)
The 3 ribs are about 3/32 apart from one another (pic 2) and the 3 ribs are about 3/32 from the white stripe as well (pic 3)
(pic 4) Just the bottom of the hose showing the 1 rib
Hope this helps :)
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A lot of discussion for something so small.... :D
bet the line workers would get a kick out of pondering something so arbitrary as how many ribs on a rubber hose. But I am right there with you wanting to find out... ;D
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A lot of discussion for something so small.... :D
bet the line workers would get a kick out of pondering something so arbitrary as how many ribs on a rubber hose. But I am right there with you wanting to find out... ;D
LOL.. Yeah you just know the lineworker was chomping on an apple and telling his co-worker..."watch this, in 45 yrs from now they'll be baffled about these ribbed hoses" !
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The original Brake Booster Hose Bracket
Darrell, do you see any GM part number like this stamped on your brake booster hose? I just noticed this one on mine. My car has never been restored, so if this hose is not the original it was a service replacment many years ago. Anyone know if it is the original or not?
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The original Brake Booster Hose Bracket
Darrell, do you see any GM part number like this stamped on your brake booster hose? I just noticed this one on mine. My car has never been restored, so if this hose is not the original it was a service replacment many years ago. Anyone know if it is the original or not?
That's not a part number - it's a GM Engineering specification number for rubber hose; describes type of rubber, reinforcing layers, burst/collapse limits, test procedures, etc. Reference to that spec (GM 6188-M) will be found on the booster hose part drawing.
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Thank you for the clarification on the number John!
Amazing knowledge here at CRG!
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Original '69 Side Marker Lights
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The original Brake Booster Hose Bracket
Darrell, do you see any GM part number like this stamped on your brake booster hose? I just noticed this one on mine. My car has never been restored, so if this hose is not the original it was a service replacment many years ago. Anyone know if it is the original or not?
The original Brake Booster Hose Bracket
Darrell, do you see any GM part number like this stamped on your brake booster hose? I just noticed this one on mine. My car has never been restored, so if this hose is not the original it was a service replacment many years ago. Anyone know if it is the original or not?
Hey Len, Just checked the brake booster vac hose and mine has no markings. It's just solid black. So that brings up another question. Has mine been replaced during the 11 yrs on the road before being stowed away or could it of got a hose without any markings ? That's an odd hose to be replacing since it's just a vacuum hose and not under pressure. Hmmmmmm !
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Hey guys/gals, Just throwing this out there. I have 4 of my original YH dated rims and a FW code as my spare. The previous owner has always had the FW as the spare and the original YH was lost somewhere along the way like most. I guess I'm lucky to have the 4.
Anyway, I did find a date correct YH with the same date as my 2-26 rim. It's on ebay at this present time. I got the guy down to $300 (wanted $400). What's your thoughts..is it worth dropping the 3 beans to have all 5 or save the $ and keep the FW as the spare. I'm looking at the overall picture when the car is completed. Or is that particular date easy to find as I may run across another sometime at a later date for less dough ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131301754023?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Penny for your thoughts..Thanks
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I have looked at YH wheels for quite a while on ebay. My thoughts, 2-26 is not a easy one to find, but is easier to find than the earlier ones. $300 is a fair price for a YH wheel that is straight no nicks, bends, whatever. This wheel is not worth $300, because of the nicks to it. If you are patient, you will run across another. It seems to me guys are always running across these wheels, and there are still a lot of guys with YH wheels on thier camaros but have the wrong date. Plus you only need 1, so chances are good you will find it.
You could hedge your bet and buy this one until a nice one came around, but $300 is to much. I would $200 for this one would be more appropriate.
just my 2 cents. ;)
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I have looked at YH wheels for quite a while on ebay. My thoughts, 2-26 is not a easy one to find, but is easier to find than the earlier ones. $300 is a fair price for a YH wheel that is straight no nicks, bends, whatever. This wheel is not worth $300, because of the nicks to it. If you are patient, you will run across another. It seems to me guys are always running across these wheels, and there are still a lot of guys with YH wheels on thier camaros but have the wrong date. Plus you only need 1, so chances are good you will find it.
You could hedge your bet and buy this one until a nice one came around, but $300 is to much. I would $200 for this one would be more appropriate.
just my 2 cents. ;)
Thanks, yeah my thoughts as well. I offered $200 and he declined.
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The problem with YH's are they are Double COPO wheels for Camaro and Chevelle, all the COPO 9737 (sports car conversions) Cars had YH's.
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Darrell, It doesn't seem like your in a big hurry. I'd wait it out and just keep on looking. Five years ago I started looking for a set of date coded "AD" rims. I came across quite a few in the $400 to $600 range and I wasn't going to spend that kind of money. I did complete my set of 5 at a cost of $175 to $275 a rim. It took time but I did it. Just be patient.
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The time to buy is when you find what you are looking for. That would be my advise. Darrell
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The time to buy is when you find what you are looking for. That would be my advise. Darrell
If you have that kind of money and a bottomless wallet that's great advise. A lot of us here are on a budget and have to be thrifty.
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The time to buy is when you find what you are looking for. That would be my advise. Darrell
Thus my confusion...lol Most here at CRG have been around these cars their entire lives, and know if these particular dated (Feb) YH rims are readily available at times. I know YH rims are out there and guys are getting crazy prices because they fell on a Z but I was wondering just how rare a particular date is such as mine which are 3 @ 2-27 and 1 @ 2-26 and if I'll most likely stumble across another within my build date 03B. Since these were produced in batches I'm assuming this is the date I need as any other date may be outside my build window. And if having all 5 date correct YH rims is that big of a deal ? I don't see this Z on the road over the next several years so I do have PLENTY of time. But I don't want one to get away either if I may never see this particular date again...or for a very very long time anyway... Do I sound confused..lol
and yes, my money tree outback is dead at times ;D or more like all the time..lol
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The general trend is that the parts are getting higher priced all the time.. but if you aren't sure, offer him *less* and maybe he will take it and you can mark it up to a 'good buy', OR if he doesn't.. wait and hope... :)
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My original Water Pump Pulley #3932456 DV
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Original Defrost V-Duct P/N 3949974 with the 3 mounting screws. "VISTRON" I presume was a supplier ?
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Looks like the defroster duct was made in February, judging by the date 'clock'. Didn't realise they were dated until now, will have to take a closer look at mine.
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You know Tim, I didn't realize it either until you just now pointing it out. I did see the "69" but didn't think much more of it than just the year. Now I see the monthly circles (clock) with the dots inside. That would make perfect sense also. The first 2 circles have dots inside of them making it February. I like it, falls in perfect line for the 03B build date. ;D
Good "Eagle" eye Tim :o
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Original Blue Seat Belts and LH/RH Retractors. Shoulder belts are still in the car. All still in good re-useable shape. Gonna need some TLC but should clean up pretty nice. Dates coming next ... documenting the dates. Not really sure how the dates are read, maybe someone can tell me.
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http://www.camaros.org/seatbelt.shtml#tags
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http://www.camaros.org/seatbelt.shtml#tags
Awesome info. Thanks K
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Original Blue Seat Belts and LH/RH Retractors. Shoulder belts are still in the car. All still in good re-useable shape. Gonna need some TLC but should clean up pretty nice. Dates coming next ... documenting the dates. Not really sure how the dates are read, maybe someone can tell me.
Throw those things in the dishwasher.
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Original Blue Seat Belts and LH/RH Retractors. Shoulder belts are still in the car. All still in good re-useable shape. Gonna need some TLC but should clean up pretty nice. Dates coming next ... documenting the dates. Not really sure how the dates are read, maybe someone can tell me.
Throw those things in the dishwasher.
Darrell, never thought of that. A little degreasing prior to cut the heavy grime. Thanks
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Haven't cleaned my car belts with this but have used it on my tow truck belts......Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom Tub and Tile Cleaner. Don't have to degrease, it will do that for you....just spray on, let it absorb into the belt and scrub with a plastic bristle brush. After cleaning, wipe down with paper towels and then rinse in warm water. May have to repeat, but it will be worth the effort. My truck belts looked like new when I finished.
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Liquid Laundry Soap straight from the bottle, let it soak in for a bit, then warm water and light scrub with plastic bristle brush. Rinse well and air dry. They will be clean and soft.
-Mark.
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oxyclean and hot water, the labels on the belts are sometimes a little tattered, so be careful if they are already damaged.
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Has anyone ever taken these covers off ? Wanted to remove to protect the insides from cleaner/water and I don't want to crack them guess how they come off.
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They snap right off, although
I have never removed them in cleaning the belts.
I use plastic lens polish on the covers to polish them.
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Darrell, if you get a chance, I would much appreciate it if you could verify a couple of details of your open element air cleaner base, which I noted early on in this thread. With specific regard to the vent tube that enters the air cleaner base from the passenger side valve cover breather hose, I'd like to know if the elbow turns out below the base at a 90-degree or 45-degree angle to the horizontal, the approximate position (o'clock) at which it exits the base, and also if the tube is 1" in diameter. Any help (or pics!) would be great!!
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Here ya go Tim
The steel tube off the breather/arrestor is 1" in diameter. It's less than a 45 degree angle downward off the breather, I'd guess more like 30 degrees and it's 90 degrees outward from the front.
Hope this answers your questions, need more let me know
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Darrell, thank you very much for the pictures, that's great!
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I have used James' Oxyclean method on three different sets of seat belts with great success. I did not remove the plastic covers and dried the buckles with compressed air. They look awesome when done. You would not believe how dirty the water gets from this process. It is black.
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I know the car well. knew tommy parkin well. He passed about 6 or 7 years ago. I went with a buddy of mine about 1995 to look at the car for him to buy it. I was amazed about all the original parts from it.
The original motor was at a local machine shop forever and I believe Phil had to retrieve it from there. I think there was only 1 head as one was cracked?? No biggie. After we looked at it tommy got cold feet and backed out. Love the dusk Blue !!! A true Z28 for sure. There are so many fakes out there nowadays that when ever I see one I try to see how many things are fake on the car. Phil finally sold it as he always has too many projects going.
I'm glad you got it. Went to a good home. Have fun !!!! Steve Keech big-machine.com
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I know the car well. knew tommy parkin well. He passed about 6 or 7 years ago. I went with a buddy of mine about 1995 to look at the car for him to buy it. I was amazed about all the original parts from it.
The original motor was at a local machine shop forever and I believe Phil had to retrieve it from there. I think there was only 1 head as one was cracked?? No biggie. After we looked at it tommy got cold feet and backed out. Love the dusk Blue !!! A true Z28 for sure. There are so many fakes out there nowadays that when ever I see one I try to see how many things are fake on the car. Phil finally sold it as he always has too many projects going.
I'm glad you got it. Went to a good home. Have fun !!!! Steve Keech big-machine.com
Hey Steve,
Yes it got a good home indeed. Are you over in the Sarasota area as well. That's where Phil is living. A great guy Phil is and seems so honest also. He's actually stumbled across a few other of the original parts among his 3 or 4 other projects laying around..lol. He calls me when he finds them but there really not much missing unless he has the original battery..lol. I'll be heading over to pick them up after the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona at the end of the month.
Yes one of the heads is cracked but I've since found a date correct one casted on the 11th, only 4 days apart.
Phil has an amazing place over there, a true "HUGE" man cave..lol. I spent half a day just looking and talking about his other cars and projects. The opening story to this thread was what I put together from the best of my memories from speaking with Phil. Please feel free to correct my story or timelines if needed. That would be appreciated as I'd like to have the cars history as detailed as possible. And since you also know this car your detail of it is very welcome.
Thanks again
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Darrell,
Yes I'm in Sarasota. been here forever and have known phil since 1984 or so. We have both had a few Camaros over the years. If you need help with anything let me know. I know a little about dz motors too.
Steve
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Darrell,
Yes I'm in Sarasota. been here forever and have known phil since 1984 or so. We have both had a few Camaros over the years. If you need help with anything let me know. I know a little about dz motors too.
Steve
Thanks Steve, I'll be sure to pick your brains.
Phil gave me another call today. Seems he's found another container of small parts belonging to the Z including the original smog pump pulley, something else smog related, more nuts/bolts and other stuff. I'm hoping for the original shift ball and oil pressure fitting (To rear of block) in that mix of parts.
I'll be meeting Phil and a few of his buddies over the "Turkey Rod Run" weekend for dinner and stuff. Will you be there also ?
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Been a while, just so dang gone busy... But the original Windshield Wash Nozzles and a 5 ribbed hose. Could this 5 ribbed hose been used during factory assembly and be original ?
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Front parking light housing and wire connection, gaskets and lens
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Front parking light lens
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Interesting to see one of the park lamps still has an original amber-painted bulb. Nice details!
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Interesting to see one of the park lamps still has an original amber-painted bulb. Nice details!
I was wondering why it was painted.. So could that bulb be original ? Did the supplier of the bulbs paint them in '69 ?
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I am almost certain the originals were amber colored glass; I painted one of mine in the '70's when I couldn't find a correct amber colored one.
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I am almost certain the originals were amber colored glass; I painted one of mine in the '70's when I couldn't find a correct amber colored one.
Ok, so this bulb was most likely painted because another amber bulb was not readily available ? Sounds like one spent more money on paint than an actual bulb..lol but I guess if a bulb wasn't available at least you had the paint on the shelf for the next clear bulb.
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My recollection was that the original amber bulbs were actually painted clear glass, then some time later the manufacturers started to use colored glass. Had a search and found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/261647588982 however would like to hear from others on this as ebay sellers are not always noted for 100% accuracy :)
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I have restored at least 100 or more 69 Camaro parking lights, allot of the cores I have purchaced had OEM amber painted lamps still in place, with a blue glass insulator for the two contacts.
Mike
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My recollection was that the original amber bulbs were actually painted clear glass, then some time later the manufacturers started to use colored glass. Had a search and found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/261647588982 however would like to hear from others on this as ebay sellers are not always noted for 100% accuracy :)
Yes I'd like to hear more on these bulbs also. Were clear bulbs painted amber by Delco ? What was factory ?
Man am I gonna have to shop for 2 of these amber painted bulbs..lol The ebayer wants $60 a pop for 2..WOW ! Maybe that can of spray paint doesn't sound so bad after all :)
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I have restored at least 100 or more 69 Camaro parking lights, allot of the cores I have purchaced had OEM amber painted lamps still in place, with a blue glass insulator for the two contacts.
Mike
Thanks for commenting Mike. I've seen your restored park lights over at yenko.net and am always impressed by how good they look.
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Well it's been a while on my own thread....just busy and all. I was at the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona Beach over the weekend. If your somewhat close and never been you gotta go. HUGE !! car and swap meet, it's literally almost the entire infield of the speedway littered with Classics originals, Rat Rods, Pro Tours and parts, you name it, it was probably there. After I made trip Sunday morning to Tampa to watch my Cincinnati "BUNGLES" just about botch another should win game. A 14-13 skin of their teeth win.
On my way back home from Tampa to Ft Lauderdale I had to stop off in Sarasota to see the gentleman that I bought the Z from. He had called me a few months ago finding 2 more boxes of parts that belonged to me. Parts such as the other smog pump tube (LH tube missing from manifold in post #137), the original Smog pump pulley and Diverter valve and hoses, Interior Visors, original wiper arms, and misc nuts and bolts, Ohhhh and the Oil fitting that I was asked about from post #177 by Gary (69Z28). Its a double male fitting and it is the original. Pics on the way
Here's just a couple from the car show.
1) Thrown together of some sort Rat Rod, had everything on it but the kitchen sink. But then again I didn't look in the trunk.
2) 74 Monte with only 8,900 original miles..crazy, Who thought..hmmm let me just park my Monte and keep the miles off..lol
3) Gremlin ;D yes a Gremlin. To tell you the truth.. It was kinda cool !
4) 69 Olds Cultlas, Midnight Blue. This was identical to my very first car I ever had at 16. EXCEPT for the 442, but color and all with a 350 ;D
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Forgot, here's the 2 boxes I'm about to sort thru
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Original 12 Bolt Lubricant tag
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I like the goodie boxes, exciting to say the least.
I really like the color on that olds. It seems to be a great color for the big A bodies, a 70 Chevelle in that color is a favorite of mine.
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In reference to #177 post by Gary. Here's the double male Oil Fitting for all console w/gauges. I believe I have the top female half in another box,, I remember seeing it among the first wave of nuts and bolts I rifled thru ;D
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I like the goodie boxes, exciting to say the least.
I really like the color on that olds. It seems to be a great color for the big A bodies, a 70 Chevelle in that color is a favorite of mine.
Austin, On the goodies, to funny but your right.
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Original Smog Pump Diverter Valve p/n 29295 and the LH Smog Tube w/check valve (RH side was on post #137)
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Not sure if original but they are GM hoses on the Smog Pump Diverter Valve. One GM hose looks like p/n's 3932476 (unsure if last no. is a 6) and other 3932478 with and hose clamps.
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Those tower clamps (being as old/rusty as they are), are almost guaranteed to be original. Clean them thoroughly, then soak them in Evapo-rust or Metal Rescue until the rust is removed and maybe they will be usable.. :)
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No wire reinforcement on the muffler. Often seen on others.
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Could you post a pic of the overall length of the double male oil line fitting. That piece is missing on my 69 Z and I am making up a few. I think the first one I have made might be a shade too long overall. Just trying to get it right. Thanks
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No wire reinforcement on the muffler. Often seen on others.
FYI - I have "29295" without the wire reinforcement. I have seen them both ways
-Mark.
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The actual overall length is exactly 1-1/2 long
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No wire reinforcement on the muffler. Often seen on others.
FYI - I have "29295" without the wire reinforcement. I have seen them both ways
-Mark.
I looked over the muffler and diverter valve very well today. I saw no evidence anywhere that there may have once been a reinforcement wire ("V" shaped) attached to the front. So that sent me searching. I've noticed many without, actually more without than with. CRG 1967-69 Camaro Emission Systems there's a pic of the '69 diverter and muffler p/n 29295 and it's without.
http://www.camaros.org/emissions.shtml#valves
Now with that being ... question? Was there 2 different ones used at any given time ? Was there a possibility of an early production version and a late version, Mine being mid 03B without ? Or all those without, were they just simply broken "CLEAN" off for no rhyme or reason ? .... just curious now.
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Reference to my 03B build and the post just before. Pic 1) Is the face of my original diverter and muffler. It does not appear to have ever had the "V" shape reinforcement wire attached. Pic 2) Is one I happened to find with the reinforcement wire
Thought it was interesting enough to post after Kurt had mentioned that most had them. Any thoughts as to why some have and some don't ?
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Thought it was interesting enough to post after Kurt had mentioned that most had them. Any thoughts as to why some have and some don't ?
Actually, I said "Often seen on others." I think most did not have the wire. But it's not uncommon.
I've never studied it enough to find a pattern. I've seen it on NOS parts and original parts. Never seen one on 1970+ cars that I can recall.
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Original deep groove Smog pump pulley #458DA
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These are the wiper arms I received also. Anyone know if these would be the correct Trico part numbers thus possibly being the originals as well ?
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They appear correct to me.... :)
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Mine are like that, but can't confirm if that's the assembly line correct wiper arm......
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Here is the most recent discussion re wipers and blades here on CRG....
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12489.0