CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Maintenance => Topic started by: sixt9x33rs on March 23, 2014, 03:26:06 PM
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I can't get my key to go to accessory. I have adjusted the linkage on the steering column. With no luck. The reverse back up is not connected and have tried to move the lever that is on the column in the engine compartment that connects to the reverse linkage and I don't get much movement. I am suspecting that there is something jammed in the cylinder area that is causing the reverse lockout lever to only turn about 1/2 inch. I have never removed the cylinder and seems to be a tedious job. I want to hook up the reverse lock out linkage and am stumped at this point.
Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks,
Lawrence
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My suggestion - it's likely the lock pin that locks the steering wheel is frozen in the upper casting where it has to slide into the lock plate. I've seen this before - you can't turn the lower locking lever on the column until you get this freed up. Cause of the problem: either dry lubricant, no lubricant, and dissimilar metals/corrosion (steel pin, aluminum casting). Take the steering wheel off, the upper cover if equipped, locate the pin where it comes out of the casting to interface with the lock plate, and shoot it with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil Oil, or another rust corrosion breaker, and work the lower lever until it's free. Betcha it solves your key problem (it did for me). Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Regards
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... parts deleted.....
Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Regards
Good point Steve; any ideas for freeing up a 'stuck pinion' in a '57 Chevy rear end? :) 10 days ago, I decided to resurrect the restoration of my '57 Nomad which was 'suspended around 20 yrs ago), and the past few days, I've been cleaning, priming, etc.. preparing to paint all the Frame/suspension items, and I found out yesterday that the pinion will not turn. It worked when it was stored away in my 'dry' garage...?? Does anyone have any suggestions or tips? I can only think of two 1) a large deadblow hammer to break it loose, and then 'try' it, or 2) a total 'chunk rebuild'...
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My suggestion - it's likely the lock pin that locks the steering wheel is frozen in the upper casting where it has to slide into the lock plate. I've seen this before - you can't turn the lower locking lever on the column until you get this freed up. Cause of the problem: either dry lubricant, no lubricant, and dissimilar metals/corrosion (steel pin, aluminum casting). Take the steering wheel off, the upper cover if equipped, locate the pin where it comes out of the casting to interface with the lock plate, and shoot it with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil Oil, or another rust corrosion breaker, and work the lower lever until it's free. Betcha it solves your key problem (it did for me). Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Steve,
I had the steering wheel off recently and when I turn the key to the on position that little pin drops down into the column so I can then move the steering wheel. Are you talking about this same pin? Does this pin suppose to drop further into the column beyond the locking plate?
Thanks
Regards
-
My suggestion - it's likely the lock pin that locks the steering wheel is frozen in the upper casting where it has to slide into the lock plate. I've seen this before - you can't turn the lower locking lever on the column until you get this freed up. Cause of the problem: either dry lubricant, no lubricant, and dissimilar metals/corrosion (steel pin, aluminum casting). Take the steering wheel off, the upper cover if equipped, locate the pin where it comes out of the casting to interface with the lock plate, and shoot it with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil Oil, or another rust corrosion breaker, and work the lower lever until it's free. Betcha it solves your key problem (it did for me). Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Steve,
I had the steering wheel off recently and when I turn the key to the on position that little pin drops down into the column so I can then move the steering wheel. Are you talking about this same pin? Does this pin suppose to drop further into the column beyond the locking plate?
Thanks
Regards
If the pin moves freely, try moving the lever itself and see if the pin moves with it. If not, the gear actuator is probably messed up (broken gear tooth, or dry lubricant also). If it refuses to move, I'd say a teardown is in order to isolate it.
Also, sometimes the intermediate column (what the lever is part of) could be damaged, or rusted. Disassembly might be advisable just to inspect/clean/lube and assemble. I think the Chassis Service Manual might be of benefit to you if you have one -
Regards (and let us know what gives) -
-
... parts deleted.....
Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Regards
Good point Steve; any ideas for freeing up a 'stuck pinion' in a '57 Chevy rear end? :) 10 days ago, I decided to resurrect the restoration of my '57 Nomad which was 'suspended around 20 yrs ago), and the past few days, I've been cleaning, priming, etc.. preparing to paint all the Frame/suspension items, and I found out yesterday that the pinion will not turn. It worked when it was stored away in my 'dry' garage...?? Does anyone have any suggestions or tips? I can only think of two 1) a large deadblow hammer to break it loose, and then 'try' it, or 2) a total 'chunk rebuild'...
I'd try gently working it from the pinion flange back and forth until you free it - too big a wallop will not do the bearings or seals any good. I actually had the opposite of this happen many years ago - the nut on the pinion loosened up on me while driving back from school in my '57 Belair, and caused the pinion to contact the ring gear carrier pretty violently when I let off on the gas. Sounded like a pavement grinder - scared me to death. Dropped the pumpkin out and found the problem, cleaned it up, re-torqued the pinion, and drove it 'till I sold it 4 years later, when I bought my X77.
Don't do like I did - dropped the pumpkin on my hand when I was trying to break the seal - wrist still bothers me 44 years later.
By the way - did you say that the rear is out from under the car, or still hung with wheels/tires in place ? Brake drums rusted to the shoes if they are there ?
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My suggestion - it's likely the lock pin that locks the steering wheel is frozen in the upper casting where it has to slide into the lock plate. I've seen this before - you can't turn the lower locking lever on the column until you get this freed up. Cause of the problem: either dry lubricant, no lubricant, and dissimilar metals/corrosion (steel pin, aluminum casting). Take the steering wheel off, the upper cover if equipped, locate the pin where it comes out of the casting to interface with the lock plate, and shoot it with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil Oil, or another rust corrosion breaker, and work the lower lever until it's free. Betcha it solves your key problem (it did for me). Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Steve,
I had the steering wheel off recently and when I turn the key to the on position that little pin drops down into the column so I can then move the steering wheel. Are you talking about this same pin? Does this pin suppose to drop further into the column beyond the locking plate?
Thanks
Regards
If the pin moves freely, try moving the lever itself and see if the pin moves with it. If not, the gear actuator is probably messed up (broken gear tooth, or dry lubricant also). If it refuses to move, I'd say a teardown is in order to isolate it.
Also, sometimes the intermediate column (what the lever is part of) could be damaged, or rusted. Disassembly might be advisable just to inspect/clean/lube and assemble. I think the Chassis Service Manual might be of benefit to you if you have one -
Regards (and let us know what gives) -
I have a CSM, so will refer to that. It feels like something is jammed in there causing it not to move.
Thanks
Lawrence
-
... parts deleted.....
Gotta remember, lubricants after 40 years or so tend to set up like concrete -
Regards
Good point Steve; any ideas for freeing up a 'stuck pinion' in a '57 Chevy rear end? :) 10 days ago, I decided to resurrect the restoration of my '57 Nomad which was 'suspended around 20 yrs ago), and the past few days, I've been cleaning, priming, etc.. preparing to paint all the Frame/suspension items, and I found out yesterday that the pinion will not turn. It worked when it was stored away in my 'dry' garage...?? Does anyone have any suggestions or tips? I can only think of two 1) a large deadblow hammer to break it loose, and then 'try' it, or 2) a total 'chunk rebuild'...
I'd try gently working it from the pinion flange back and forth until you free it - too big a wallop will not do the bearings or seals any good. I actually had the opposite of this happen many years ago - the nut on the pinion loosened up on me while driving back from school in my '57 Belair, and caused the pinion to contact the ring gear carrier pretty violently when I let off on the gas. Sounded like a pavement grinder - scared me to death. Dropped the pumpkin out and found the problem, cleaned it up, re-torqued the pinion, and drove it 'till I sold it 4 years later, when I bought my X77.
Don't do like I did - dropped the pumpkin on my hand when I was trying to break the seal - wrist still bothers me 44 years later.
By the way - did you say that the rear is out from under the car, or still hung with wheels/tires in place ? Brake drums rusted to the shoes if they are there ?
Rear is out of the car (for 20 + yrs) lying on the back floor of my shop. the drums were not locked up; axles turn (opposite directions), but the pinion will not. I'm going to 'bump the pinion' with a deadblow and if that doesn't jar it loose, then I'll follow an other suggestion and dump a mix of ATF and a solvent into the differential to loosen it hopefully. Or maybe I need to just pull the axles and pumpkin and redo/rebuild everything (axle bearings and pinion bearing/seal. I do plan to drive this car, and I prefer doing things once, and only once.. :)
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Rear is out of the car (for 20 + yrs) lying on the back floor of my shop. the drums were not locked up; axles turn (opposite directions), but the pinion will not. I'm going to 'bump the pinion' with a deadblow and if that doesn't jar it loose, then I'll follow an other suggestion and dump a mix of ATF and a solvent into the differential to loosen it hopefully. Or maybe I need to just pull the axles and pumpkin and redo/rebuild everything (axle bearings and pinion bearing/seal. I do plan to drive this car, and I prefer doing things once, and only once.. :) [/quote]
I know that's what I'm planning on doing with mine Gary. I'll pull it apart, blast it and paint it, then reinstall everything with new gaskets, brakes etc. It will be so much easier when it's out of the car and not having to to pull it back out for the R&R.