CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Originality => Topic started by: BillOhio on April 14, 2013, 12:38:01 PM
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I searched and couldn't come up with anything. Should the front mounting bracket be axle gloss or was it painted with the bottom of the body?
Thanks
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I searched and couldn't come up with anything. Should the front mounting bracket be axle gloss or was it painted with the bottom of the body?
Thanks
It was flow-coat painted semi-gloss black primer before it was assembled to the spring.
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Thanks John
Was going to get my axle assembled and hope to get it under the car this week and found those with no paint on them!! too many parts here I guess.
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Is flow coat GM speak for dipped?
Mine certainly appeared dipped. Had little puddles of dried paint.
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Is flow coat GM speak for dipped?
Mine certainly appeared dipped. Had little puddles of dried paint.
Yup - "flow-coat" was the standard Chevrolet assembly plant process for priming raw steel parts - the parts were hung on hooks or placed in wire baskets on an overhead conveyor and went through an enclosed booth where they were deluged with black primer from all directions (like showerheads), and the runoff went through grates in the floor into a sump and was recirculated. That's why you see puddles and runs of dried paint.
The "flow-coat" booth was preceded by a 7-stage hot degrease/phosphate/chromate rinse system, and was followed by a gas-fired bake oven (45 minutes @ 325*F). This same system also processed the raw front sheet metal (hoods, fenders and extensions, inner fenders, radiator support, header, hood latch support, etc.).
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I'm wondering if I can duplicate that finishing effect using a can of GM reconditioning black (I still have a few gallons) and a wire hanger. Where the puddles stick, they stick.
Mike
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that's what I've been doing, Mike.... about the closest we can come, and it uses the minimum of paint to get that 'thick effect'..
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Hi Gary,
Did you prime first? I was thinking to prime for the adhesion benefits and then dip.
Thanks,
Mike
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I've done it both ways, and to be honest, I'm still not sure which is preferred. The factory used the black wtihout primer (as you can tell when you strip down a an original part (which still has paint residue). I like the reconditioning paint for it's gloss level, as I think that comes closest we can to what the factory did, so I use it in spite of it's lower durability (but how much weather, 'use' and 'misuse' are out cars going to see? not much I suspect...
PS. if you do prime, I'd suggest sanding most of it off, or applying it very thin if you're going to cover it with gm reconditioning black.
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The factory used the black wtihout primer (as you can tell when you strip down a an original part (which still has paint residue).
What the factory used in the flow-coat system WAS the primer (black lacquer primer); what made it stick and last for years was the hot iron phosphate treatment, which provided the "tooth" on the raw metal for the paint to stick to.
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That's good to know, John. I have a few gallons of phosphate solution and it's no problem to phosphate those parts.
Thanks,
Mike
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We epoxy primed all our parts for our restoration and then topcoated with a our variation of a 60% gloss black. Yes the pockets were dipped evident from reviewing parts before any restoration but when assembled with the spring very difficult to note a dipping process. Same thing with the gas tank straps as they were apparently dipped but the runs were on the inside of the straps and some at the ends. For ours I was more concerned about longevity so proper metal prep and epoxy primer before the top coat were the norm. I have dipped a few parts but they did not look like originals other than knowing they were dipped but that was me I'm sure. :)
Whatever process works for you go for it and have fun.
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The factory used the black wtihout primer (as you can tell when you strip down a an original part (which still has paint residue).
What the factory used in the flow-coat system WAS the primer (black lacquer primer); what made it stick and last for years was the hot iron phosphate treatment, which provided the "tooth" on the raw metal for the paint to stick to.
I've cleaned and prepped a LOT of original factory parts (from '55's thru 'early 70's).. and the black underhood/underbody parts always showed nothing but black, and I assumed it was all the black finish coat. John: Were ALL the parts that got the black semi-gloss/satin final paint (underhood and underbody) were they All primed black first (lacquer?) before the black final coat? I'd like to understand that better so I can better replicate that factory finish. The GM reconditioning black specifies thinning *(if necessary) using enamel reducer or mineral spirts, so I'm assuming it's an enamel? That's the closest thing I've found/used for years (30 yrs or more) to duplicating the 'look'. I'd be very interested in learning more .. as much as you can provide to us!
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The factory used the black wtihout primer (as you can tell when you strip down a an original part (which still has paint residue).
What the factory used in the flow-coat system WAS the primer (black lacquer primer); what made it stick and last for years was the hot iron phosphate treatment, which provided the "tooth" on the raw metal for the paint to stick to.
I've cleaned and prepped a LOT of original factory parts (from '55's thru 'early 70's).. and the black underhood/underbody parts always showed nothing but black, and I assumed it was all the black finish coat. John: Were ALL the parts that got the black semi-gloss/satin final paint (underhood and underbody) were they All primed black first (lacquer?) before the black final coat? I'd like to understand that better so I can better replicate that factory finish. The GM reconditioning black specifies thinning *(if necessary) using enamel reducer or mineral spirts, so I'm assuming it's an enamel? That's the closest thing I've found/used for years (30 yrs or more) to duplicating the 'look'. I'd be very interested in learning more .. as much as you can provide to us!
There was only ONE coat of black on all of the front sheet metal parts - that was the flow-coat primer. If you'll go to the "Chevrolet Assembly - Paint Shop Operation Details" portion of the Assembly Process Document (http://www.camaros.org/assemblyprocess.shtml) , you'll find all the details.
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Thanks John! so it appears I was mistaking 'the flowcoat primer' for being like the 'gm reconditioning black'...?
Can you provide any other details about the exact type of primer that was? lacquer? enamel? Typically a primer is porous and absorbs moisture over time.... the paint used by GM doesn't seem to be very bad in that sense..?
I've always used the GM Reconditioning black as being the most similar paint I could use (to what was used in the factory), but was it? what would be closer??
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Thanks John! so it appears I was mistaking 'the flowcoat primer' for being like the 'gm reconditioning black'...?
Can you provide any other details about the exact type of primer that was? lacquer? enamel? Typically a primer is porous and absorbs moisture over time.... the paint used by GM doesn't seem to be very bad in that sense..?
I've always used the GM Reconditioning black as being the most similar paint I could use (to what was used in the factory), but was it? what would be closer??
It was lacquer primer - don't recall the part number or specs, but in the aftermarket a lot of guys use the GM Reconditioning Black and like it.
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In order to get the "thin coat look with the runs & puddles" on parts and not have them appear to have been dipped in "plasticoat" I prepped and lightly hit them with the bead blaster them then primed them 1 coat using black primer. Next I thinned black lacquer and literally poured it over the parts... it was so thin that I was concerned that it wouldn't offer adequate protection by itself. (I tried just using thin lacquer however for longevity I decided to epoxy prime then go with the thin coat for visual effect)
I experimented and ended up stripping and re-doing a few braces about 6-7 times until I achieved the look I wanted.