CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: upscope757 on September 28, 2012, 12:14:24 PM
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What is the guidance out there as to whether one should replace wiring harnesses during a restoration or not? Pulled a 67 rs/ss out of a barn Montana... I know, I know... but I really did pull it myself... It hasn't seen the streets since 1987.
I have the car down to the hulk. It has been sandblasted and primered. Clip is removed. Original wiring harness was pulled. I don't really know the status of the original wiring harness either way.
Should I not chance it and just replace it?
Also, for the headlight doors. There are aftermarket operating mechanisms now that work much better than the original motors. Should I deviate from originality in this case and go with new design to insure better operation?
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After 40+ years the insulation is bound to be brittle. I would replace it. Think of it as cheap insurance. After all, you don't want a fire in your newly restored car.
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My car was complete and had been stored. All the wiring "looked" good and every wire in it was replaced. It's too old and fragile to take a chance on a fire.
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Going that far into a resto, I'd replace it. You don't want to find out you've got problems after it is back together.
Headlight doors depend on your intentions for the car - show or drive. If you don't have good working originals or are missing components and are not showing the car as original, I'd go with the upgrade.
Looks like your car was "born" the same day as mine - My LOS L48 has a Fisher Body scheduling code of K250. There was another "day K" owner on this site recently. Do you have the original drivetrain?
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Pete, You have helped me in the past. I have the original 12 bolt and thought I had the original tranny. It is a Powerglide, but the stamp is C0R03N, indicating at least the pan is probably a '70. Can't locate a VIN, but did locate a circular number in the casing, looking like a clock dial on the driver's side casing, stamped '66'. Don't know what that does for me.
I did pull the frame off and can get at the tranny from all sides and just can't find any numbers on it besides the pan stamp and all the patents.
Is the L48 a big block?
The engine is correctly coded "MV" - Powerglide with smog equipment and built six weeks after. Folks here have told me that the car to this engine is still out there but I am at a bit of a loss as to where to find it.
I toyed with the idea of putting newer suspension, brakes and steering components, to really enjoy it, saving all the old parts, but think I will go for as much of a resto as I can and just get it on the street sooner.
I did upgrade the 3:31 non-posi 12-bolt unit to 3:73 posi (kept the old gears) and did have the tranny rebuilt, taking the original torque converter to a 2,500 stall with a shift kit. The engine had 2:02 heads already cut and I have had it completely rebuilt as well.
The engine was date stamped six weeks later, Dec 31, 66 at the same plant as the car, chrome oil tube.
I figured that since it wasn't a numbers matching car, I could drift a bit out of the lanes of strict restoration and enjoy it too, while presenting a definite original RS/SS. Sierra Fawn with Beige Vinyl top and black bumble stripe is pretty rare.
Console car but no gages. Thought of keeping all the old stuff and converting to a console/gage car too.
Dressing up with torque thrust or American rims from the era.
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X2 on both questions, especially in light of your last post.
On the doors, if you want original to show, do original. But if it is going to be a true driver, make it the most driveable. At most cruise-ins or local shows, no one is going to look at a door mechanism... I'm all about original, but safety first!
A few years ago, Dab67 reported his 67 harness fire here on this forum. His car looked great, but hidden in the harness was an exposed wire. Fortunately, it was minimal damage.
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Thanks a million!
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Pete, You have helped me in the past. I have the original 12 bolt and thought I had the original tranny. It is a Powerglide, but the stamp is C0R03N, indicating at least the pan is probably a '70. Can't locate a VIN, but did locate a circular number in the casing, looking like a clock dial on the driver's side casing, stamped '66'. Don't know what that does for me.
I did pull the frame off and can get at the tranny from all sides and just can't find any numbers on it besides the pan stamp and all the patents.
Is the L48 a big block?
The engine is correctly coded "MV" - Powerglide with smog equipment and built six weeks after. Folks here have told me that the car to this engine is still out there but I am at a bit of a loss as to where to find it.
I toyed with the idea of putting newer suspension, brakes and steering components, to really enjoy it, saving all the old parts, but think I will go for as much of a resto as I can and just get it on the street sooner.
I did upgrade the 3:31 non-posi 12-bolt unit to 3:73 posi (kept the old gears) and did have the tranny rebuilt, taking the original torque converter to a 2,500 stall with a shift kit. The engine had 2:02 heads already cut and I have had it completely rebuilt as well.
The engine was date stamped six weeks later, Dec 31, 66 at the same plant as the car, chrome oil tube.
I figured that since it wasn't a numbers matching car, I could drift a bit out of the lanes of strict restoration and enjoy it too, while presenting a definite original RS/SS. Sierra Fawn with Beige Vinyl top and black bumble stripe is pretty rare.
Console car but no gages. Thought of keeping all the old stuff and converting to a console/gage car too.
Dressing up with torque thrust or American rims from the era.
Must have been your car I was thinking was the other recent K code, now I remember. L48 is the 350. Since you are upgrading from stock I'd continue along that line as the funds allow. Keep the original parts if possible. Keep the pics coming!
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Now here comes the ignorance... L48... where does that show up? Is it the option on the Window Sticker?
Don't see an L48 on my car anywhere, only the 4P
Where is the best place to post pics? I only saw the option when I started a thread, but no option when a thread is already started.
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As stated from everyone, change that wiring harness as it really is cheap insurance but what I wanted to communicate is there are several connectors that are not correct on the repro harnesses so save your original harnesses and do a little swapping. Just makes for a clean swap.
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Thanks to every one on this, particularly you Chick, I wouldn't have thought of that.
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Yes, allow plenty of time and order your harnesses, after receiving them lay it side by side with the original and compare every wire and connection to insure they are the same length, color, and type.
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Really glad I chatted with you all. Thanks so much.
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Thanks to every one on this, particularly you Chick, I wouldn't have thought of that.
Matt, James gave some great info on checking everything. The rubber boot going to the starter is wrong compared to the original and again several connectors. Those rascals are not difficult if you know how to remove them but it took me some time on obtaining a nack to complete. In our restoratioin thread I have some info on them and some pics showing what I used to remove the wiring from two types of connectors. Did not want to buy a tool for a one time use. Just go down to post #309 once you hit this link http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584&page=21 and post #501 on this page http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584&page=34
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Very nice. Thank you.