CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: sixt9x33rs on July 01, 2020, 07:25:02 PM
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Has anyone had to shorten the actuator shaft slightly to get the door to close correctly? Both of my headlight doors were perfect prior to taking the car apart and painting it. Now one door is slightly open beyond acceptable to me. I have adjusted the door cover, the bracket the holds the back of the actuator etc. The actuators that I put in the car 11 years ago! Were OER. This has been something that has always bugged me but have lived with it. Now going to take it to the next step and fix it perfect if I can.
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I took my repro actuator out and had one OG that still worked OK. Put it in and the door fit is perfect. Imagine that use an OG part and all is great. I am going to cut that shaft down to the correct height.
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I have this same issue on my white 69. with reproductions actuators. I have the originals that came with the car. I will have to swap them and see if there is an improvement.
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I recall talk of this at Team Camaro, years ago.
I suggest trying some silicone spray in the ports of your originals. It usually helps the internal seals.
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I recall talk of this at Team Camaro, years ago.
I suggest trying some silicone spray in the ports of your originals. It usually helps the internal seals.
That is a great idea. I am going to try that.
When I restored my car, I submerged my actuators in a pool of evap o rust and some got inside the actuators. At the time I did not know that once dried evap o rust can get sticky. I am guessing one of mine is stuck inside. I will shoot it with silicone and see what happens, and if it works will try the one that is on the car. It works now but is a little slower than the newer repro with the right length rod.
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Silicone works well in the relay too. I'm running old GM stuff in mine and I gotta say, the headlight doors work perfectly!
But if those cans (actuators) got rusty inside or corroded, they're probably beyond repair.
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Put silicone in the actuator and seems to work better. Thanks
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anyone got a picture of the insides of one? I was thinking like a seal like a holley vacumn secondary?
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They're O-rings. The TC search is working good again !
https://www.camaros.net/threads/rally-sport-actuator-cut-apart.147634/#post-1122154
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The shaft may be longer but the bracket on the rear of the could be a few thou off in stamping, or slightly attached askew PLUS the repro can maybe a few thou longer leading to an accumulation of tolerances which makes it outside of acceptable limits.