1
Restoration / Re: bellhousing alignment-any new info?
« on: May 19, 2024, 12:41:27 AM »
I can send you Jody's PDF files.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
M20, and when I put one in 20 years ago the needle bearing was recommended to me at that time over the bushing, and reading the CRG report it also says to use the needle bearing.Bellhousing misalignments don't like pilot bearings for one thing. Jody told me to use a bronze bushing he shipped me for his Muncie and not the pilot bearing I had. For decades the oillite bronze bushing is all we used. And those cars were/are beat on mercilessly. Jody or someone else can explain in greater detail. What does your input shaft look like after that failed pilot bearing got at it?
I remember this old post: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=14385.msg126982#msg126982That is helpful. I've never seen heavy body color on undercoating inside the door. If John said it did then I'll go by that. And by the doors I have for car I'm doing now, it makes sense. I suppose being asphalt based the paint did not adhere forever. Many times when I have to do hammer and dolly work on doors the undercoating(evidence) needs to be removed to do it properly.
Mike
I've been in the business for decades. If I need certain artwork done for a job, I draw it myself. Then a printer or sign shop scans it and produces the product I need. Very easy process. And sign shops have programs that can manipulate any font or drawing.After falling down the rabbit hole…..
https://www.hprubberstamp.com/images/Pullman_Catalog.pdf
I’ll have to measure the one on my wiper motor….
calculations of .375=3/8”=Pullman 3
Calculations of .281=9/32”=Pullman 2 1/2
Looks to be Roman font
Nice find. I looked through the brochure and the Roman font. The 6 and 7 don't appear to match up with Roman on the 67 model stampings.
I installed 3000 fonts on my computer and will try to get through most of them this weekend. Hopefully I can find a match and then someone to make a stamp with it.
Use the .375 stamps if that's what yours is. The result can become larger after the stamp is loaded with paint as mine did. And any letter or number that is rounded on top or bottom is taller than one that is not rounded. An "O" is taller than an "E". Quite evident when someone hand letters, does not know this and their job is wrong. Any sign painter or artist might be happy to duplicate your font with precision.I used the 1/4" tall stamps which were correct for the motor I did. If someone wants to borrow mine just give me postage. If I was going to lose sleep over an exact font match, a number stamp could be partially used and the incorrect portion hand painted. It's my job to do work that small.
.25 is a tad too small.
When you polish SS trim, you'll burn through the layer of flash chrome. Yup, the originals aren't as bright, but they don't oxidize either.....Correct. Which is why a variation is obvious if the entire piece is not polished, or adjacent to one with flash chrome.
I was reviewing a posting from John Hinkley (John Z) from 2015 who stated that GM routinely flash chromed stainless steel trim so I stand corrected. I have a couple of sets of NOS windshield and back glass stainless trim that are not nearly as "brilliant" as the stainless on the Cortez RS/Z (by a mile) which leads me wonder if that trim was triple / show chromed along with everything else that received chrome plating. Can't say for sure but it would appear to be the case.What you read is in the link I posted. I have NOS and old used stainless moldings in stock. Also highly polished stainless that was not flash chromed for a customer. I've polished stainless myself with all the proper compounds and buffers. The polished stainless screams brightly like show chrome which is unlike the NOS stainless. I doubt that car you saw had the moldings triple chromed, there is no need and a waste.