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Originality / Re: 1969 Oil Pressure Gauge Block Sender Fitting

« on: October 13, 2013, 03:39:46 PM »

Gary;
When I called Edelmann for 1/8" dbl. comp. ftg. source they sent me to:
B.E. Atlas Co.
4300 N Kilpatrick Ave
Chicago IL 60641
phone 773-283-2550

They do have a website; http://www.beatlas.com/contact/default.asp

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Originality / Re: 1969 Oil Pressure Gauge Block Sender Fitting

« on: October 13, 2013, 01:13:21 AM »

Gary;
Edelmann shown here probably has more than one source. That's the numbers on my sales receipt.
They are who Edelmann sent me to buy. See pictures
sleeves

all three edelmann looks same as original

larger nut style

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Originality / Re: 1969 Oil Pressure Gauge Block Sender Fitting

« on: October 12, 2013, 03:01:38 PM »

Gary;
Don't want to lead you astray here, just remembered some additional info. The Post 25 fitting 16001 is a larger nut style 3/8" and not the same as original. The only place I could find the original 5/16" nut style shown on post 26 was from: Part number 0650 111200 B.E. Atlas (773) 283-2550 in a pack of 5. Didn't want you to be disappointed when you get the new one, cause it looks different, it will work fine its just not the same as the original.

Todd

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Originality / Re: 1969 Oil Pressure Gauge Block Sender Fitting

« on: October 11, 2013, 02:41:46 AM »

Gary:
You asked:
With all this done, do I still need one each of #22008 and #16001 when I cut off the end that goes into the OEM fitting on the block?
Yes, you need a new dbl. compression fitting and a sleeve those are the two I ordered.
I'm going to assume the old double crush sleeve is no good to use right?
Yes, after its crimped you can't get the line out and re-crimp it without fear of a crack/leak. Just replace it.

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Originality / Re: 1969 Oil Pressure Gauge Block Sender Fitting

« on: October 11, 2013, 02:32:55 AM »

Gary;
Here are my steps, using the original fitting on the block. I nipped one end off with the female fitting shown on post 25. The line kit I got from Paragon is crimped at both ends female fittings.
1) Jack the car and remove console, remove line and feed wire up through rubber isolator at firewall.
2) After you've got the old line removed from the car, feed the nipped end through your stock firewall rubber isolator. I used the wire (.032") to feed the line back up from the console. .
3) Removed male block fitting and installed original female block fitting.
4) Placed new double compression fitting on hose first and slide up out of the way, install new sleeve in line and pull fitting back down. My fitting and sleeve were loose (take care at this step as you can lose them)
5) Place new line end with assembled compression fitting/sleeve in block fitting and push line in while spinning fitting to pre-load the fitting on the line.
6) Torque line to 20 in/lb (that's the torque I used per some manuals I utilized)
7) Install and torque console fitting

Start car and admire your leak free install

7) Re-install the console and removed components
4) Drink a cold one and pat yourself on the back.

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Originality / Re: 1969 Oil Pressure Gauge Block Sender Fitting

« on: October 10, 2013, 12:16:05 PM »

I bought Paragon's line kit and cut one end off for the new double compression fitting, as shown.
The reason I like Paragon's kit is as John has stated before; That little compression fitting shown there is a GM proprietary fitting.
I have lots of different compression fittings for the 1/8" line and the one shown post 25 is the GM style. It appears its swaged on somehow during the process of assembly. Now all the others I've seen don't work as well (on stock components) as the GM fitting.

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Originality / Re: 1969 Oil Pressure Gauge Block Sender Fitting

« on: October 09, 2013, 11:55:34 AM »

The double compression fitting you have has been compressed and you won't be able to re-use.
You need the Sleeve number 22008 and fitting 16001 for $2 a piece.

New ones are available here online; http://www.fastfittings.com/search?searchwords=22008&searchsmall_5487389=Search

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Mild Modifications / Re: Vacuum Advance - Converting to Full Manifold Vacuum

« on: October 05, 2013, 02:32:25 PM »

Tough to get an old mechanical distributor to do what you want, but not impossible.
The car will run best on full manifold vacuum for sure, so sounds like you have two issues.
One is to limit that vacuum advance at idle with a limiter plate like Summit sales Crane Vacuum Timing Limiter Plates 99619-1.
You could dial in the limiter to 10~12 degrees at idle.
Once that is worked out you asked about all in advance rpm, and that is dependent on what the motor likes.
Some people suggest lug the motor at rpm to see if it pings, but how is the seat of the pants feel during acceleration?
If its not pinging I would leave that alone. There are very few spring types to select from, and I haven't found one that is just right.
But I haven't tried to make springs yet and that is the only way I know of to dial in the curve.

Todd

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