CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: dannystarr on May 09, 2015, 04:43:32 AM
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Decided to fire up the AC Delco Energizer Y-55. I picked up my battery acid today, 1.5 gallons and a container of distilled water. I still don't know how to dig out the wax. Or what ratio to put in, all acid, 90% acid and 10% water? 50/50 ? And do I hit it hard with 10amps for 5 or 6 hours, or take it up nice and slow with 1 or 2 amps overnight? Any help would be great. I am sure this has been done by some members. Thanx... Danny
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Battery acid is already pre mixed with distilled water, just add as-is.
1 -2 amp slow charge and best to be with it so you can measure the terminal volts occasionally. Once it hits about 13.5 - 14 volts it should be good to go.
There are optimal charging methods for lead acid, but given the harsh environment a car battery is exposed to - hot/cold engine bay/climate and a charging system that knows nothing about the batteries needs - it's hardly worth the effort.
Add to this the 'seldom correct' old school relay regulator and it's an even bigger nightmare for the poor battery!
Keep a hand on case temp as well, it should be an even temp all round and barely warm.
I believe that there are cars on the market now that have a much more refined charging systems that do take better care of the battery, which is no doubt because of the more exotic chemistries that some batteries are made with.
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Rob has excellent advice! I'll add, make sure you cover the holes back after adding acid. Either put caps on or place an old shop rag folded over a few x's to lay the length covering all holes. I loosley put caps on and put a folded rag on top of caps, myself. This is a safety measure. I have seen more than once and I have personally caught batteries on fire and/or had them explode while charging. This covering keep the fumes away from a spark source. Plus, do not breathe in fumes and charge in well ventilated area, like outside.
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Ok, thanx guys.. I will wait to see if anyone else chimes in, but that about covers it. I will do tom. Morning. I am charging it in one of those old lower to the ground all metal wheel barrows outside. I will monitor temp with infrared gun. And attach a little tester to it and lay it next to it so I can just walk up and look. I hope it has no shorts or issues and just comes up nice and finishes. Getting excited to see it in the car. Maybe NOW the aftermarket cables will reach... ha ha... D
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How do I get the wax out? Any trick to it, or just tip it on it's side and lightly dig it out until it's all clear. Maybe hold a vacuum hose next to it while doing it? Does it matter if any falls inside?... D
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How do I get the wax out? Any trick to it, or just tip it on it's side and lightly dig it out until it's all clear. Maybe hold a vacuum hose next to it while doing it? Does it matter if any falls inside?... D
Danny, sent you a PM! Friend who used these rascals back many years ago told me you just push the wax looking stuff down in?????? But have not done mine yet so just going by what friend said. He's normally correct!
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How do I get the wax out? Any trick to it, or just tip it on it's side and lightly dig it out until it's all clear. Maybe hold a vacuum hose next to it while doing it? Does it matter if any falls inside?... D
Would like to see this wax. Can you post a pic? A non conductive wax inside the battery wouldn't be a problem. How much of it is there?
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How do I get the wax out? Any trick to it, or just tip it on it's side and lightly dig it out until it's all clear. Maybe hold a vacuum hose next to it while doing it? Does it matter if any falls inside?... D
Would like to see this wax. Can you post a pic? A non conductive wax inside the battery wouldn't be a problem. How much of it is there?
Rob, I'm thinking its a very thin coat as it was just to seal the entrance to each cell. But not sure!
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Add to this the 'seldom correct' old school relay regulator and it's an even bigger nightmare for the poor battery!
Actually, the old regulators weren't too bad. They compensated for ambient temperature, which is basically all the current regs do.
Cold is 14.7 volts, hot is 12.5 volts, normal is about 13.5.
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Add to this the 'seldom correct' old school relay regulator and it's an even bigger nightmare for the poor battery!
Actually, the old regulators weren't too bad. They compensated for ambient temperature, which is basically all the current regs do.
Cold is 14.7 volts, hot is 12.5 volts, normal is about 13.5.
This old technology (1st Gen.)seems antiquated and crude, but is proven to work with simplicity. Most everything is basic and easily diagnosed and repairable.
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Your quite right Kurt and ko-lek-tor, I am being a bit harsh on what was a simple but effective regulation system, as time went by though they could wander a bit.
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Ok, here is the pictures requested of the wax. Now I have very small holes and pretty hard plastic...Danny
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Wax Out... D
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Now very small holes and hard plastic.. knock outs? I can't push these inside, right?. I was going to drill a hole and jam needle nose vice grips in the hole, bite it tight, then chip around the knock out edge until it lets go. What say you all?... D
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"Wax on - wax off Daniel san" :)
I must say the pics are an education to me, never seen anything like it!
Sure looks like a knockout, perhaps tap one side down so the other side kicks up, then pull out with pliers/vice grips ???
I think they're just a plug, not physically attached around the periphery, so could make them rotate, then easy to pull out with no drilling debris.
They surely must come out?? They surely don't expect you to tediously fill it through those little holes - nobody lives that long!!
So maybe there's no need to remove the wax, just pull the whole thing out. I think the wax covered hole simply acts as a 'relief valve'
Edit: Or perhaps screw a self tapper into the hole and pull on that??
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HBC is selling that battery for $1500 and it comes with instructions. It would be nice to know what the OEM recommends. Maybe HBC can tell you?
(http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/2/437/nos-4046.jpg)
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Maybe, but they are not real forthcoming when it comes to helping us out. At least that's my experience. Maybe someone here is a friend of the owner Jim, and can get him to scan a copy over and it can then be posted?
I thought more on the plastic plugs and I am sure they are barely attached, and I can take a small sharp chisel and knock down one side, then grab with pliers and tear/pull it up. I will give it a shot later tonight. They have to come out, cause the caps will not enter the space, and only go half way as it is right now. I am sure GM didn't want a bunch of crap/dirt/water/debris making it's way into the cells.... D
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Perhaps you can ask over on yenko dot net. Those guys are big on original stuff like this. Then again they may freak out you are actually planning on pouring acid in a rare NOS battery to use it instead of displaying it next to your car!
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Danny....got a Chassis Service Manual? If so section 6-Y has the information you need. If not....you can download a 1967 one here.....https://dl.dropbox.com/u/55969979/1967%20CHEVROLET%20CHEVELLE%20CAMARO%20CHEVY%20II%20CORVETTE%20CHASSIS%20SERVICE%20MANUAL.pdf (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/55969979/1967%20CHEVROLET%20CHEVELLE%20CAMARO%20CHEVY%20II%20CORVETTE%20CHASSIS%20SERVICE%20MANUAL.pdf)
Here is a short discussion about activating the battery.....http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,327262,327293 (http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,327262,327293) BTW...this company is where I bought my NOS Y-55 battery.
The one I have is identical to the one Heartbeat City is selling and it has the same items that HBC is showing.....But there wasn't any instructions about installing the battery, only warranty instructions.
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I couldn't open the manual in your link, but I checked my 68 manual. You are correct, it has very detailed instructions.
Basically, push the Delco eye into each cell to break seal and let it fall into the battery...
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It's charging right now!! It's at 11.61 ... Where do I stop!!..I am guessing 13.5 Forgot to ask... Help!! Danny
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As per my first post. min 13.5v - max 14v
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When the battery is fully charged the output current on the charger will drop to nearly nothing....IE, the battery plates won't draw anymore current.
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It's charging right now!! It's at 11.61 ... Where do I stop!!..I am guessing 13.5 Forgot to ask... Help!! Danny
A fully-charged battery will show 12.6 volts. During operation in the vehicle, the voltage regulator limits applied voltage from the alternator within the range of 13.5-14.2 volts.
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So I unplugged it last night at 11.88. So tonight I will plug it back in and take it to 12.5 to 13 and call it good. Thanx.. John or anybody, I poured the acid in but forgot to let it sit before hooking to charger. It only sat about 5 minutes, is that going to be ok?... I am charging with ONE amp... D
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1 amp? That will take a while.
Look at http://www.pulsetech.net/. This actually works - I had several batteries that were 5+ years old and dead and I revived them for several more years.
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Thanx Kurt, I do remember you posting that cool charger. Gotta wait to get some more cash ;)
Yes I am bringing it up nice and slow with a 1 amp charger. I got time, may switch to my 2 amp. I don't wanna hammer it with 10.
BUT... by not waiting 30 minutes after adding acid, to hook up the charger, did I mess anything up??... D
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So right when I was going to charge up the NOS Y-55, I scored another one, that is also NOS but worse in condition. Actually fits my car better and looks right. I dug out the wax and popped out the plastic plugs. It is actually the one in previous pictures, I was hiding it. The purists are still ahead. I am STILL holding off on the charging of the cherry battery for now. So it is done and installed. Has just enough wear to look like it belongs. Seems to be functioning properly... Danny
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Installed.. I may take a rag with a little carb cleaner or brakleen and dull the battery caps some, as they stand out to well. ..D
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mmmm.....I'd leave it as-is, looks like a well looked after survivor already :)
The yellow on the caps may have survived quite well even on original batteries.
That you didn't leave it sit for 1/2 an hour or so is neither here nor there, just 'exercise' it a couple of times - start the car, let it run for 10 mins, switch it off, turn the headlights on [low beam] and let it power the headlights for 30 mins or so, or until the batt volts drop to around 11.5 volts, then headlights off and re-start engine and let charge for 30 mins or go for a drive. Let sit overnight and repeat the next day - that's it.
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Brush them down with steel wool and they'll look great.
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Brush them down with steel wool and they'll look great.
For that extra 'survivor' appeal! :)
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HBC's Y55 does not say Energizer on the box or battery so it is basically a replacement battery from about 1974-75 or newer. I think towards the end of '74 is when the Energizer was dropped.
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Correct you are.. No embossed "Energizer".. It is a service replacement. I have one that I bought for well over a thousand dollars less than the one they are selling. With the first date of warranty 1976. Which still works, as it would just be just like going down and buying one when your original took a dive. I have to say, it is pretty fun to have an assembly line correct battery. It's a great visual :)
Danny
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I have one that I bought for well over a thousand dollars less than the one they are selling. With the first date of warranty 1976.
And you got two batteries for that price, Danny! ;)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/csUAAOSwBLlVQXxE/$_57.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/tekAAOSwv0tVQXxI/$_57.JPG)
Paul
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That's right, those are the one's. Good catch.. Both for $300. BUT one of the batteries already had damage, then got damaged in shipping, as the box was too small...So I am getting back $250! I repaired it, charged it and installed it. So both batteries for $50! Not a bad deal eh... D
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You da man, Danny! :)
Paul