Messages

16

Maintenance / Re: hesitation while driving

« on: June 21, 2017, 09:57:46 PM »

Suggestions on a reputable company?

Cliff Ruggles (Cliff's High Performance) did mine.  He jetted mine for the 10% ethanol blend gas we have around here.  I couldn't be happier.  If it weren't for those secondaries opening & giving you a big kick in the butt, you'd swear the car was fuel injected.  The only issue is turn-around time.  I think mine took 3 months.

17

Originality / Re: Non reveal felts

« on: June 16, 2017, 11:14:33 AM »

My door weatherstripping used plastic retainers front & back.  The retainers are available from HBC under p/n WTS-1027.

18

Restoration / Re: Rochester 4MV Quadrajet

« on: June 15, 2017, 04:56:03 PM »

....and cut to the chase....the green teflon  stuff didn't appear till late 69 early 70.

My intent is not to argue, but that isn't an accurate statement.  I have an original owner 68 with the original Q-Jet carb and it originally had the green stuff.  Built in June 1968.

Here is a pic of the carb before restoration:

19

Restoration / Re: Rochester 4MV Quadrajet

« on: May 22, 2017, 04:49:52 PM »

Try contacting Cliff Ruggles at Cliff's High Performance:
http://cliffshighperformance.com/

20

Restoration / Re: 69 Deluxe door panel.

« on: May 22, 2017, 04:48:19 PM »

Find the weakest solvent that will remove the coating.  Test it in a hidden area first, like behind the door handle cup.  Maybe start with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol and work your way 'up' from there.  I've found that the vinyl that the door panels are made from is some pretty tough stuff.  IIRC, I ended up having to use lacquer thinner to remove paint from a set of original deluxe panels.

To give them a fresh look, I recommend SEM Color Coat in Landau Black.  Prep with SEM Soap, followed by Vinyl Prep, then use the Color Coat.

21

Restoration / Re: Idler Arm Boot

« on: March 05, 2017, 03:54:36 PM »

Crazy Glue and Loctite 380 are both types of instant CA adhesives, usually referred to as 'super glue'.  Regular chain store super glue is usually brittle, and while it bonds to rubber very well, it is not flexible.  Loctite 380 is a rubber-toughened with some flexibility, so it's usually the go-to glue to use for bonding o-rings and other rubber that is required to flex a little.

22

Restoration / Re: Idler Arm Boot

« on: March 03, 2017, 05:25:46 PM »

I might try de-greasing mine real well and use some rubber cement.

I would suggest using an adhesive such as Loctite 380 (aka "Black Max").  It should work very well in an application like this.  We specify this at work for bonding split o-rings.

23

Mild Modifications / Re: Any minor modifications that can have slight benefits to power?

« on: February 04, 2017, 09:19:43 PM »

I guess I assumed timing would have already been optimized with what you have. Carb may or may not help much - depending on what you do.

If the original engine had (or has) a smog system, then there is a lot to be gained from re-mapping the timing (assuming the smog system has been removed or 'gutted' so it doesn't function).  The original timing on the smog equipped cars was really weird.

The other simple mods that will help and will not really change the car are:
- plug the "hot slot" exhaust crossover on the intake manifold and replace the heat riser with a 'blank' piece (or just remove the valve disc for a stock look)
- change to an electronic ignition like the Breakerless SE   http://www.breakerless.com/
- have the old Quadrajet rebuilt and set up for ethanol fuel (IMO, go right to Cliff Ruggles - he's the man for Q-Jets)

Now, I can't quote any horsepower numbers, but I did all of the above on my L30 327 and it was very noticeable.  I wouldn't call re-mapping the timing "super simple", as it took a lot of time & patience to get it just right.  Everything else was quite easy.  My car now drives beautifully, with instant throttle response and more power than I can ever remember.

For more info on setting up the timing, here is what I did:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=10925.msg89071#msg89071

24

Originality / Re: Points Distributor Cap

« on: February 02, 2017, 12:50:24 PM »

You're welcome.
If shopping for a NOS D-409 rotor, here is what I have found:  If the box has "ROTOR X" printed on it, then it is the older long electrode type.  If the box has "ROTOR 2X" on it, it is the later E-stamped type.

25

Originality / Re: Points Distributor Cap

« on: February 01, 2017, 04:28:15 PM »

Tim - I know you didn't ask about the rotor, and I have no idea if you already know this, but...
it's a good idea to use a rotor without the "E" stamp on the electrode, as the electrode is slightly longer.

26

Mild Modifications / Re: New pipes are next: Any opinions?

« on: February 01, 2017, 02:37:38 PM »

I guess it's only a power loss if you are going back to an original type Gardner system from a 'performance' system.  If you are out to get every last bit of power out of the engine, then go with a high-flow system.  If you are more of a 'correct' exhaust guy, then get the Gardner system.  I don't think the engine will feel restricted or held back by the stock type exhaust.  I have the Gardner system and my little L30 327 seems to have plenty of power!

27

Restoration / Re: Koni shock replacement bushings, decals ???

« on: January 19, 2017, 04:02:24 PM »

The Koni web site still shows the 80-1914 (no A) and 80-1915 as available.  You could contact them to see if you could get a set of bushing/hardware for those and hope for the best. 

The Koni web site also shows the small triangle decals, but they are slightly different:
http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Products/ACCESSORIES/DECALS/

You may want to try contacting David Townsend, his web site is https://www.sportscarart.com/ .  I saw on an MGB forum where someone scanned & sent him some old Koni stickers that look just like yours.  Not sure he ever reproduced them, but it's worth a shot contacting him. 

Check out the MGB forum thread showing the NOS Koni decals:
http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?71,2696370,2696370#msg-2696370

If that doesn't get you anywhere, try contacting Greg Lilly at Underground Graphics in Houston.  They made me some custom decals for brake calipers that came out awesome.  If you can get him a scan of the decal, he can do the rest.  He does custom work at reasonable prices.  His website is:
http://www.undergroundgrfx.com/about/

28

Originality / Re: L30/M20 Production:

« on: January 18, 2017, 02:22:39 PM »

Interesting.  So there were over twice as many 68s built than estimated in the L30/M20 Research Report.
Is there any way to break down the production numbers to get how many 68 L30/M20 convertibles were made?

29

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...beware the carefully worded ad again

« on: January 12, 2017, 08:42:24 PM »

Not trying to point out what's wrong with this car, but what's up with the clear tape?  It's on the top radiator hose, the rear edges of the door panels, and appears to be over the signature on the glove box door.  Maybe even on the air cleaner snorkel.  Interesting, looks to be an attempt to protect these parts.

30

Restoration / Re: Console volt meter gauge issue 68 SS/RS

« on: December 18, 2016, 11:12:01 PM »

The console gauge is an ammeter, not a volt meter  (well, technically I guess it is a voltmeter that is looking at a voltage differential to determine how much the alternator is charging).  Either way, I don't know the answer to your question regarding using the original ammeter with a different alternator/regulator set-up.  Hopefully, someone else can answer your question.  However, there is a voltmeter available that will install in place of the original ammeter and look like it belongs there.  It is made by American Autowire.  I installed one in my car, and it is a very nice upgrade in my opinion.