CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: BULLITT65 on December 24, 2017, 04:45:34 AM
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So I had been talking to a new member, and he disclosed some plans he has for making a few changes in the new year. So I had been thinking of things that I am kinda working on, or towards, and thought it would be good to hear from some of the guys here what they are trying to get done currently or in the coming months. :)
For me I was able to finally get a temp gauge, and oil pressure gauge mounted in my white 69, so I don't have to rely on the idiot lights. Felt like I was driving blind. I am am still trying to locate a Stewart Warner 990B transmitter, to get my tach operational. I also located a set of (4)Goodyear wide tread GT tires for a pretty good deal. So if I can pull that off and swap out my BFG's for those, that would be cool.
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Bullitt, is there a brand of gauges you like best? Thats the same thing Im about to do with my 69 and, thats a good way to put it; driving blind. I never trusted the idiot lights either. What if the bulb burns out?
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I like the Stewart Warner mechanical gauges. Specifically the "green line" deluxe face series.
Here is a thread for the 60's gauges http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12588.0
Stewart warner remakes many of them now, since guys like the style of the gauges so much.
I guess I like the day 2 look, for most aftermarket stuff I add to my cars/motorcycles. Items that guys would have bought over the counter from back then. (Period correct parts).
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The 'green painted with line' on the face is distracting IMO; all I want to see is the numbers and the needle... ie. 2-5/8" racing gauges... (I will run the factory stock gauges in my Camaro, but I plan to use these in the custom '57 Nomad I'm building now)
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Gary, not sure we are talking about the same set. Are these the ones you think are distracting?
(The actual green part is pretty slim, but everyone likes something different I suppose)
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We all must be thinking alike on this one. I want to get a set of gauges in my '67 that currently has idiot lights. Two of the four don't even light up. Oh, and get a set of the new red line Firestone radials also.
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And that reminds me what I wanted to ask you guys. What type of gauges do most of you prefer, mechanical or electrical? What are the pros and cons of each type?
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Gary, not sure we are talking about the same set. Are these the ones you think are distracting?
(The actual green part is pretty slim, but everyone likes something different I suppose)
Those are cool. I have an old set of Stewart Warner gauges here, not the green line, but the old coke bottle style, complete with a vacuum gauge as well I'm going to swap back over to the nomad.
I have the old Sun tach that runs off a battery box that I'm reluctant to send out for conversion. Now that they reproduce the look of that tach with modern internals (and no box required) for only $140 I'm probably just going to buy one of those, then just mount the old box to make it look like it works :)
As far as things to do on the Camaro.....Just continue driving the wheels off it is the only plan for us.
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Gary, not sure we are talking about the same set. Are these the ones you think are distracting?
(The actual green part is pretty slim, but everyone likes something different I suppose)
Yes, that's the one I was thinking of, but you are right.. the green part is tiny, so I guess the shiny center part is what is distracting to me (from the numbers and needle)... and I prefer mechanical also, as I believe they are more acccurate.
From the sounds of you fellas 'list'... it sounds more like a list for Santa.. rather than a list of things to do over the winter.. :)
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I definitely prefer the mechanical gauges, besides being more accurate, I think they send a more consistent signal to the gauge, and perhaps more of a real time reading. The electrical it seems that there is a lag time with it. (but maybe thats just me? ??? )
I actually had the oil and water gauge, but it took me a while to find a nice 2 pod bracket to mount them. Now I just have to figure out what to run my hot wire off of, to illuminate them. I am thinking the cigarette lighter hot wire maybe?
Having the items is all half of it, Gary. (EX you probably have everything you need for you 57 nomad, but you still need to assemble it all, right?)
Santa doesn't wrench on any cars at my house.... if he did, I would purchase the parts and leave them by the milk and cookies ;D
HO HO HO!
(BTW Gary you didn't mention any work on your camaro did you?)
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Detail the engine, have the rear end gone through-detail, and resto the oe exhaust. Prefer the old school 2 5/8" black faced SW. I'm doing fuel,water,oil.
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Interesting Jano. Surprised you would do the fuel, unless you are running a sump maybe?
How are bringing back the exhaust?
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1968 #1 owner had a sun tac mounted in place of the fuel gauge. SW used for fuel gauge, always been that way, said the dealer did it prior to delivery. Nice job, looks like it rolled out of the factory that way.Sent a pic out to DWC a while back of it.
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Complete exhaust was taken off in 68, spent its life in garage rafters. Still has lots of undercoat on the muffler. I did the hangers a while back, easy, laquer bath. Fasteners are getting the typical treatment, along with the clamps. Manifolds getting blasted then coated with a hightemp graphite based spray. Elbow grease on the pipes, lol. No pitting, presents as a year or two old exhaust. I have been debating the exhaust for some time, ya know, Z, headers...well finally decided which path I'm taking with finishing the car. Pretty cool to say it's the born with exhaust, hangers, fasteners and all. BTY, the rubber on the hangers are like my rag joint: mix of black and white rubber. I think it was Gary who posted this was because they were made from recycled tires, or maybe John Z.
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Yes. I know what you're saying about the exhaust. With the exception of the NOS muffler my 396 has all it's pieces including smog....160k. Southern Arizona sure plays nicer with those parts. Paint & interior is another story. Hopefully in a few months it will be headed for fresh paint & interior......Joe
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Trying to get my car back to 99.9% factory. The only real big parts left are the dist. and fan clutch. I have a radiator but no tag. Found a source that can repro the original tags and might have a core or can re-core mine with the original brackets. Took my spoiler off and need to get the holes fixed in my trunk lid. Of course I'll have to repaint it but I have a flat hood to replace my C.I. one so I'd have to repaint that too. I took off the belt reveal moldings and they scratched the paint pretty deep but I guess I'll have to touch that up. My paint isn't perfect anyway. Then I'm trying to get some original backings for the door panels and get them recovered. Some day when I get all these things I'll do a frame-off.
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BTY, the rubber on the hangers are like my rag joint: mix of black and white rubber. I think it was Gary who posted this was because they were made from recycled tires, or maybe John Z.
Actually made from Goodyear or equivalent conveyor belting material stock - depending on thickness, anywhere from 2 to 4 ply construction. Used steel rule dies to "cookie cut" the shapes needed, hangers were riveted together. Other than the dies needed to cut the shape, it shouldn't be too difficult to find the belting through a local power transmission/material handling distributor.
Regards,
Steve
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I'm planning on driving my 69 SS this year. Santa dropped off a set of new
wheels and tires.
Anyone have any thoughts or advice on building a 396
small block for it?
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1102chp-396ci-small-block/
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... portions removed....
Anyone have any thoughts or advice on building a 396
small block for it?
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1102chp-396ci-small-block/
I'd suggest that you should let 'weight' be a primary consideration for driveability... ie. if big block casting, go Alum on intake/heads..
with 'small block' 396, lots of options at lesser weight.. :)
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I like those wheels.. Sounds like your cost to getting it on the road. :)
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This year I'd like to do some things to my 68. Rebuild the steering column, Swap out the junk IROC steering gear for an original, and hopefully upgrade the old Edelbrock EFI controller to something more modern. If I could just get this stupid house remodel project done!!
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No major plans, but if possible I would like to make this..
(https://s26.postimg.org/nyrvqqomh/IMG_0751-2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yyd32cf1h/)
look something like this..
(https://s26.postimg.org/7yesnq6wp/Lemans_Blue_68.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/q17vey2r9/)
There's still a few months left right? ;)
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Looks like that trailer tire has seen too many miles :o
Mike
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Yeah it blew & i didnt even know it. I got home late at night and didn't even see it until the next morning. :-[ The tire behind it had thrown its tread also, could have been ugly. :o
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My z28 needs brake service. Wheel cylinders, caliper rebuilds, pads, shoes. Any suggestions on who has good quality rebuild parts? Also need new rubber brake lines.
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Yeah it blew & i didnt even know it. I got home late at night and didn't even see it until the next morning. :-[ The tire behind it had thrown its tread also, could have been ugly. :o
Seems to be a common occurrence out here in the desert South West. I blew a tire on my enclosed last year and didn't know it either. Couldn't feel it or hear it. Luckily had a nice guy flag me down and pointed to the tire. I needed gas soon anyway so I hit an exit and pulled in. It looked just like yours, lol.
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One of the advantages of tandem axle trailers. When I used to trailer my boat I paid the extra $$$$ for the tandem trailer. Though a little more in cost of ownership, it is a lot safer to operate.
Mike
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Nick, looks like a good project. I like the look of the blue car, that will be nice when its done.
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Yeah it blew & i didnt even know it. I got home late at night and didn't even see it until the next morning. :-[ The tire behind it had thrown its tread also, could have been ugly. :o
Seems to be a common occurrence out here in the desert South West. I blew a tire on my enclosed last year and didn't know it either. Couldn't feel it or hear it. Luckily had a nice guy flag me down and pointed to the tire. I needed gas soon anyway so I hit an exit and pulled in. It looked just like yours, lol.
Yeah that sun is brutal out here. Where this old trailer normally sits the afternoon sun really beats down on that side. :(
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Nick, looks like a good project. I like the look of the blue car, that will be nice when its done.
Thank you Austin, I have been stuck on a Blue craze since the 67 I did last year.
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My z28 needs brake service. Wheel cylinders, caliper rebuilds, pads, shoes. Any suggestions on who has good quality rebuild parts? Also need new rubber brake lines.
Eldon,
Rebuilding the brake calipers and cylinders on a '69 is a simple and inexpensive process; Your local parts store probably has the caliper repair kit for $10-12 or so (both sides), and also the wheel cylinder repair kits or complete wheel cylinders also very inexpensive. If you can't find them locally, order from RockAuto.... :)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5632131&cc=1434753&jsn=577
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1969,camaro,5.0l+302cid+v8,1434753,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+cylinder,1952
My car hadn't been driven in 35 yrs, and I didn't have to replace any of the rear brake hardware.. it was like new. For the front I rebuilt the calipers using a kit, did a light cleanup/true cut on the rotors. Blew out the hardlines with alcohol and replaced the soft lines. I also rebuilt the hold off valve and cleaned the distribution and proportioning valves. what wasn't as cheap was having Gregori rebuild the booster, and Whitepost rebuild/sleeve the MC. I used DOT 5 for refill since the car will not be driven very often.
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ALRIGHT!!! Look at all that work gary has been up to....
Gary it sounds like you will be ready to roll here in the coming months?
Is that the "Plan" for your Camaro??? ???
;D
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Austin? Are you trying to rile me up? :)
Nope, just trying to give Eldon a little headstart since I did that work a couple of years ago... :) I've told you.. My camaro is on hold for awhile... :) until I can repaint my hood, do some touchup on the fenders and reinstall the front... painting for me has to wait til Spring...
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Any of you tried the trailer tire covers? They are priced pretty cheap and my trailers tires seem to dry rot while my cars stored inside out of the sun do not. Last fall I got a new boat trailer that will be used maybe once or twice a year and I would like to think I could actually wear out the tread for a change. My car trailer tires have about 1500 miles on them but I am about afraid to go far on them.
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Yes I keep the tires covered. It does help, but prolongs the inevitable it seems. The heat is also brutal on tires (blacktop and sunshine 300 days a year) Seems once the tires reach 4-5 years old they become an iffy proposition, both cars and trailers.
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yes I also use them to protect the tires from the UV. Also I have found the higher rated trailer tires (D) to be more heavy duty , and less prone to blowing out from heat/age/ weight. I think amazon had the best prices. You just have to measure how tall your tires are because they make the covers in different sizes. You want them a little snug, so they don't blow away, but still cover the whole tire.
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I need to get some for this old trailer. My enclosed sits between the back fence and my garage so it doesn't get hit with the sun like this one does.
Funny story about this trailer. I bought it brand new in 97 and only pulled a few times. A year later I drug it all the way to Tarpon Springs, Florida to bring home my 69 Z. I went down & back 2800 miles in 3 days. I didnt have a spare so I borrowed and old spare from my brother in law to take with us. On the way there, we were driving through Shreveport, LA @ 5 PM rush hour, by now I had been on the road for about 14 hours straight and some car comes up honking the horn yelling about the trailer tire. We pull over and the right rear tire is gone. Not just the tire but the rim and the studs as well. :o So I find an Pep Boys or something and buy some studs & lugs and proceed to fix it in the parking lot with basically no tools. Back on the road and I make to Florida mid morning the next day. We pick up the car and turn right around & head for home. I made it almost all the way back the NM state line and the borrowed spare tire blows apart and darn near rips the fender off the trailer. When I get stopped in the middle of nowhere, at about midnight, I find a big chunk of the tread has flown forward and lodged between the tongue of the trailer & the deck. With no spare I jack it up and move the right front tire to the rear axle and limp into the closest town, Clovis NM. Of course nothing is open at this time so I stop at a gas station and start offering to buy anyones spare tire that stops in. I finally get lucky and someone sells me their spare and off we go again headed for home. Four or five hours later I finally make it home. I back the car & trailer on to the side of the house dead tired and head in to get some sleep, I had been basically up for 3 days straight. I get a few hours sleep and go out to unload and notice the left rear trailer tire is leaning and upon a closer look, the bearings are gone, I mean completely gone and only the nut & about half the thickness of the washer is holding that wheel on. The most amazing thing is...when that tire blew & beat the hell out of the trailer it never touched the car. :o
So the moral of story is even if it's new doesn't mean it's right. lol.. I would have never thought any of this would have happened with a basically brand new trailer. ??? Aside from that, it's been a pretty good old trailer. lol..
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My main plans this winter is to get my car into a shop, still searching for a very reputable shop, to have my rear axle changed out from the 3.73 that's in there back to the stock ratio 3.31. My entire goal for my Camaro is to have a daily driver, I do some freeway driving, so this will help when paired up to my M20. It's been delayed a little bit, but have my sights set on hopefully getting it in at the end of the month, so if anyone in the Utah/SLC area knows of a great shop let me know. This summer I want to get my engine rebuilt and swapped out, have a line on an original 350 from a 67 Camaro, but holding out to see if I can find a 350 from a 68 (my original engine is long gone, but want a period correct motor to go back in it and get rid of the 350 truck motor that's in there).
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Exhaust: out getting professionally done. Cleaned up L tail pipe to reveal part #, matches UPC. There is an industrial coating shop very near by(minutes) He's a car guy and takes side projects in for a really nice price. Just wants a pic of the car when it's done for a calendar. Rest of the part #'s will get documented when returned. None on muffler. Note diameter difference L vs. R tailpipe. Also posted R tailpipe weld. Discussed some years ago in the forum.
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continued...
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Jano... so what kind of 'professional coating' is he putting on your exhaust pipes? Some of us need to know.. :)
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My plans are to get the 427 tripower setup that I have already rebuilt on my L78 for the cruise ins. If things stop popping up maybe this weekend. Also have a golf ball size dent in the Z (yes I did it) to have fixed and painted.
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Differential: complete rebuild to include new 4.10's. After around 49 years, the 88's are coming out. I still the possess the original GM 4.10's, but they are to remain boxed up. C clip eliminators are coming off, housing ends are to be repaired . Yoke inspected. Also getting fitted with a set of replacement springs from Mr. Harris. And circa 70's Lakewood slappers. Rear drums original, well within specs, shoes and hardware were replaced around 1990, I think, but present no signs of use...dirty. BP getting blasted and resprayed, new brake hardware and cylinders. Bob also hooked me up with a pan for the 302. Only difference I see in the springs is 1 dimple on 1 leaf: L&R.
Bushings still in great shape, but will be boxed and shelved with the others. I may post a pic of the later, if I find a part#, didn't look. I'm aware no rocker trim or push bars on the bumper,,,doing Day 2. On the fence re-pop polys vs. BFG's. Considering the originals are in storage, but not safe to drive on, I'm leaning towards the BFG's. If the car was just trailer bound, I'd mount the originals. Two shows next year, and it's seeing street duty.
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My plans are to finally drive and show it. After a 15 year hiatus, it is back on the road and with a fresh restoration.
In the picture I am getting ready for a spot buff and polish before I put the car cover on it. I took it for another shake down run this past weekend to check the front end alignment I did. It felt so good to be driving this car again.
Mike
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Cont...
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Jano... so what kind of 'professional coating' is he putting on your exhaust pipes? Some of us need to know.. :)
High temp powder, rated 850 degrees, maybe 1200, we were bouncing through products for the pipes. We looked through a batch of steel product samples and he found one which matched the exposed tail pipe, with a low shine. Exhaust manifolds are getting treated with what he was spraying on some industrial oven grates, high temp. 12-1400. Slight texture. I'm aware black is not correct, and thought of doing them with a silicon product I saw on a Chevelle site. But putting something industrial grade on them appeals to me, plus I like black. I'll see how everything comes out, experimenting. I'm sick of moving them around after all these years. And...money saved on a re-pop exhaust( lots) can be put to better use on the car. When finished, If you like the outcome, I can PM you his contact info Gary.
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My plans are to finally drive and show it. After a 15 year hiatus, it is back on the road and with a fresh restoration.
In the picture I am getting ready for a spot buff and polish before I put the car cover on it. I took it for another shake down run this past weekend to check the front end alignment I did. It felt so good to be driving this car again.
Mike
Yea time flys, I think I'm around eight years in this project.No desire for it to continue to be shop decoration. Two shows next year, then street duty. At under 40,000 miles,there remains a little play room on the odometer. Lord knows my kid will drive it when they plant me, lol.
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Jano,That is some really original looking crud on your BV.
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springs...
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Jano,That is some really original looking crud on your BV.
OMG!! Whole underneath was sprayed with it, also layers of Rustoleum and burn out box rubber. On top around 20 years of dust. But..it did entomb the steel all these years, no corrosion. Plus car never saw snow. Or rain for that matter. I never saw the wipers work, bench tested ok. Wanted to post some inspection graffiti. I like finding the stuff.
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I'll have some "after" shots when it gets home.
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Jano,That is some really original looking crud on your BV.
OMG!! Whole underneath was sprayed with it, also layers of Rustoleum and burn out box rubber. On top around 20 years of dust. But..it did entomb the steel all these years, no corrosion. Plus car never saw snow. Or rain for that matter. I never saw the wipers work, bench tested ok. Wanted to post some inspection graffiti. I like finding the stuff.
Hey! It's only 'graffiti' if it's put on during restoration; the original stuff was FUNCTIONAL... and we like seeing it (at least I do).. :)
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:) I do like finding and trying to replicate per my pics. I toned it down a bit with the steering linkage from what I found,,,but did "tag" it. So my beautiful, restored, powdercoated garage art BV will have a slash of white and splash of green to show something was there.
Next on the agenda is getting the engine and trans in. My April is pretty booked, hoping for it to be breathing life by June. Summer is always busy, finish underhood and rehang front clip late summer, early fall. Hopefully I can get it in during the summer to have the headliner replaced, while its sitting. #@&#g mouse left a quarter size hole in the rear of an otherwise pristine piece of material.While we were having the house built, and it was in storage.
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20 plus years ago already.
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I think seeing the (crud) is neat too. Some of the "survivors" I see could use some. And I agree, never scraped off greasey crud and found rust.
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I hope to actually drive my Z10 more than once this year! ;D
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Update: Got the diff back last week and installed. Very pleased.
Exhaust came back about 2 weeks ago, happy with the manifolds Don't hate, but really don't love the rest of the exhaust. Down pipes and muffler/ exhaust tips nice. Some scale was discovered top of pipes going over axles. No longer smooth. Can't really see, but I know it's there. Finish a bit too much on the aluminum side with a slight texture. Nit picking, but want the look of a "natural" -new exhaust. Going with a Gardner. And sent the Caltracs back to Jegs last week. Keeping all stock. That will be one for the next project. Summers coming fast and the upholster is backed up. Plan on having the headliner replaced prior to the front clip, engine installed. 1 small mouse hole the size of a quarter, otherwise it would have presented as new..
OE yoke, 4:10's, axles, bushings and springs on the shelf.
I guess over restored concerning fasteners, but I like the detail.
Soaked the drum hardware in evaporust and treated. Rabestos spring kit. OE drums and backing plates shot in Eastwood 3x semi-gloss. Shoes....actually had less then minimum wear showing, so yup, reused. Already seated in the drums, which are well in spec. Cars really just my high dollar model, no not sweating if she's not breathing life till winter.
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cont..
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A few more...
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BTY, Henderson Driveline, out of Westlake OH did the rear end. I've known Tony for many years. Bullet proof rear ends and drive shafts.
My biggest issue was having this converted back to a c clip axle. Preference would have been going with the Ford style housing ends and axles. Bigger bearings and safety engineered in. But ground pounding days with this car are over, so they corrected my 28 year old hacksaw job (for the eliminators) and sleeved outside the carrier for added strength. Seamless work, looks great.
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Excellent.
Since things had to be redone, I think I would have gone with the Ford ends and bolt in axles. But it’s done now so get the car on the road and enjoy!
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Mounting flanges were ok, basicaly they just had to repair the area where the race presses in. It's the way I wanted it done.
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Also, not a stump puller 468 between the wheelwells😉
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WTG Jano.
no hurry= getting it right the first time
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Looking good.. gonna be a really nice Z once finished.
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Hopefully getting the car on the road this week. Had a shop rebuild the M20 and got a new clutch kit.
Need to get four new RS taillight harnesses since they are a little loose and rattle around too much for my liking and one new RS parking light/turn signal harness for the front as the wiring is mangled.
Find some bolero red touch up paint to cover a few nicks.
Off season will be a 12 bolt POSI and traction bars along with adding in an electric pusher fan for the aluminum rad. Fixing the heater core and get heat blowing again.
The real season goal is 5K miles.