Upper A-arm Splash Shields

[ZLP955]

Wondering who currently makes the most accurate upper a-arm splash/dust shields for a '69?
I had a set that were thin and so flimsy they could've been cut from a bicycle inner tube......
I've been looking at Steele Rubber's product and it looks good, but also heard a rumour that Trim Parts is going to make them. Did consider buying masticated rubber sheet with the correct short cord fragments in it, but minimum order size makes shipping down under pretty $$.
Any recent experiences/opinions much appreciated!

[Stingr69]

I have seen those thin ones and you just have to laugh at them.  The thicker ones I think came from D&R but that was a long time ago.  Worth a call before ordering. The staples are a pain to say the least but it helps to have an extra set of hands to do it.

[firstgenaddict]

if you want ones that are correct, heavy with the cording in them, you have to make them yourself. 
The rubber is available... from restoration supply.

[ZLP955]

Yup thanks James, I did mention considering masticated rubber sheet, but minimum quantities are still very expensive to ship to Australia. Was hoping somebody made a good pre-cut version, but maybe I just have to pay the $.....

[x66 714]

if you want ones that are correct, heavy with the cording in them, you have to make them yourself. 
The rubber is available... from restoration supply.

Is restoration supply a company? Do you have any details? Thank you, Joe

[68camaroz28]

if you want ones that are correct, heavy with the cording in them, you have to make them yourself. 
The rubber is available... from restoration supply.

James, I'm sure that is totally correct in that I purchased the material from Restoration Supply at Carlisle event in anticipation of making my own but never used that material. Reason, ordered set from Heartbeat to someone who was advertising correct thickness and bingo, they had the thickness and stringer look. Someone on here several years ago (noyenko I believe) used the same a-arm flaps and lightly sanded them to show the stringers as originals. I did not do any sanding as noyenko but spent more than a day making staples and installing with the same look as originally installed. And for anyone trying that it takes two people IMHO.
Joe, yes, restoration supply is a company based in PA.
Tim, if you want material I still have the sheet and will send you what you need for just the cost to ship! My gift down under! LOL

[Edgemontvillage]

if you want ones that are correct, heavy with the cording in them, you have to make them yourself. 
The rubber is available... from restoration supply.

Is restoration supply a company? Do you have any details? Thank you, Joe

Joe, I just placed an order (by telephone) so I can't vouch for the authenticity of the material however here is what you need:

Vendor: Restoration Specialties  http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/
Part #: MAT014-WS  (All Black Rubber; 1/16" Thick Rubber With Fibers Used On Splash Aprons, A-Arms & Wheel Wells; 43" Wide)

[x66 714]

Thank you everybody....Joe

[ZLP955]

Chick thank you for the kind offer - will send you a PM!

[firstgenaddict]

Tim... I got the masticated rubber I have from the back of semis's hauling loads of paper rolls into our plant, they were used under rolls weighing 2-5 tons so they wouldn't slide in a trailer.
You may be able to locate some sheets of masticated rubber from a similar use.

[ZLP955]

Thanks James - I did contact a few local suppliers and manufacturers here, several had either the correct appearance or the correct thickness available, but unfortunately not both in the same product.

[68camaroz28]

Chick thank you for the kind offer - will send you a PM!

Got you covered Tim and your welcome!

[69 Zee]

if you want ones that are correct, heavy with the cording in them, you have to make them yourself. 
The rubber is available... from restoration supply.

ordered set from Heartbeat to someone who was advertising correct thickness and bingo, they had the thickness and stringer look.

Chick, am I understanding you correctly that you ordered a set from HBC and was satisfied ?

[Petes L48]

if you want ones that are correct, heavy with the cording in them, you have to make them yourself. 
The rubber is available... from restoration supply.

Is restoration supply a company? Do you have any details? Thank you, Joe

Joe, I just placed an order (by telephone) so I can't vouch for the authenticity of the material however here is what you need:

Vendor: Restoration Specialties  http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/
Part #: MAT014-WS  (All Black Rubber; 1/16" Thick Rubber With Fibers Used On Splash Aprons, A-Arms & Wheel Wells; 43" Wide)

Lloyd, just wondering if you receive the material for Restoration Specialties yet, and if so, what you think of it?

[68camaroz28]

if you want ones that are correct, heavy with the cording in them, you have to make them yourself. 
The rubber is available... from restoration supply.

ordered set from Heartbeat to someone who was advertising correct thickness and bingo, they had the thickness and stringer look.

Chick, am I understanding you correctly that you ordered a set from HBC and was satisfied ?

No, I'm not sure it was Heartbeat and believe it was someone else but they had the fibers and thickness seemed OK to me and Legends judging accepted and they reviewed them. The bigger obstacle IMO is getting the staples to look like the originals. I will go thru my file and see what I can find on where I purchased them as I owe Tim information on that as well as he needs to have a set even if he is going to cut out from the material I said I'd send him. Cutting out those a-arm flaps along with the piece that goes under the steering area (used original one there on our 68) would seem to be a little bit of a challenge.

[69Z28-RS]

The stuff Steele Rubber parts sells seems OK to me...   3/32 thick; 4 sf minimum order for less than $40... that should be enough shouldn't it?

https://www.steelerubber.com/masticated-sheeting-70-0645-45

And other choices on ebay....
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=masticated+rubber+sheets&_sacat=0

[ZLP955]

Gary this is the pre-cut version from Steele Rubber that I was considering back in the original question:
https://www.steelerubber.com/splash-apron-70-3332-45
Hoping someone here has used it and can comment; far easier for me to buy the pre-cut version, as my originals are long gone, meaning I would have to buy a reproduction set as well as the sheet product, to use as templates to cut my own.

[69Z28-RS]

One of us could probably supply you with a template from an original set if you wanted....?

[KK302]

I originally purchased a set from OER, but they were the typical "bicycle inner tube" material that didn't look right. I ended up purchasing the masticated rubber from Restoration Supply. I used the OER pieces as a template, since they matched the originals, and would lay flat on the sheet of masticated rubber so I could trace out the pattern. It took some time to cut everything out and replicate all of the original staple holes in the "new" masticated rubber shields. Hand made all of the staples to the original size from stainless steel wire. The trick is to not scratch the freshly painted inner fender, while you install everything. A very time consuming but worthwhile project.

[69Z28-RS]

Appears you did a great job, KK... 

[BillOhio]

I used the restoration supply material and stainless staples. I got a roll of stainless wire at lowes i think. It is tough and i bent the corners square in a pair of vice grips. You need a nice square corner or they wont pull up tight in the inner fender

[KK302]

Posted by: 69Z28-RS
« on: June 22, 2018, 10:19:13 PM » Insert Quote
Appears you did a great job, KK... 

Thank you!

[68Zproject]

Watching this has lead me to a few questions.  Can you re-use the original staples or do they break?  I assume the staples are applied after the paint?

[68camaroz28]

Watching this has lead me to a few questions.  Can you re-use the original staples or do they break?  I assume the staples are applied after the paint?

I think you will find the original are difficult to work with but yes, the staples were applied after paint. I used steel wire (not stainless) to make our staples and as Bill had noted they need to be at 90 degree angles.

[Edgemontvillage]

Vendor: Restoration Specialties  http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/
Part #: MAT014-WS  (All Black Rubber; 1/16" Thick Rubber With Fibers Used On Splash Aprons, A-Arms & Wheel Wells; 43" Wide)

As a follow-up, I received my order of this material from Restoration Specialties late last week. The formulation must have changed since others have ordered/used it - the material I received has a gloss finish with no visible fibers, its reminds me of a thick pool liner. NOT suitable as an OEM substitute for inner fender splash guards. Disappointing.   

[Petes L48]

Vendor: Restoration Specialties  http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/
Part #: MAT014-WS  (All Black Rubber; 1/16" Thick Rubber With Fibers Used On Splash Aprons, A-Arms & Wheel Wells; 43" Wide)

As a follow-up, I received my order of this material from Restoration Specialties late last week. The formulation must have changed since others have ordered/used it - the material I received has a gloss finish with no visible fibers, its reminds me of a thick pool liner. NOT suitable as an OEM substitute for inner fender splash guards. Disappointing.   

Thanks for the feedback Lloyd.  Sorry to hear it wasn't suitable.

[janobyte]

Well, I'm crossing this bridge real soon, not looking forward to it. Firewall pad was a pita, and been putting off the splash shields. Into it too  deep now not to install. Im going to order the ones from steelproducts just to see, they have a good return policy. Should have just left them in 20 years ago, and not had the engine compartment shot,,wouldnt have to be dealing with theses fenderwells. Lots of time invested removing undercoating, staples, they used way more then the aim. Oh well.

[KK302]

Vendor: Restoration Specialties  http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/
Part #: MAT014-WS  (All Black Rubber; 1/16" Thick Rubber With Fibers Used On Splash Aprons, A-Arms & Wheel Wells; 43" Wide)

As a follow-up, I received my order of this material from Restoration Specialties late last week. The formulation must have changed since others have ordered/used it - the material I received has a gloss finish with no visible fibers, its reminds me of a thick pool liner. NOT suitable as an OEM substitute for inner fender splash guards. Disappointing.   

Sounds like they may have changed the product that they sell. I looked at the invoice for the stuff I purchased back in 3/17 and it was described as "Rubber Matting 1/16 thick black masticated 48 inch wide". The fibers looked like white cotton or nylon string and were contained in the rubber sheet itself. Not exposed on the outside, but it gave the outside surface a bumpy look (not glossy) which resembled the originals pretty well. It also made cutting the material a little more difficult because of the "cotton" string.

[BillOhio]

NOS set in yenko classifieds for $1100! Not sure if camaro or is there a difference. Who would have guessed a set of those around

[Petes L48]

Were any of the original aprons like this photo of an original Powerglide shield?  The sheet appears like the first few layers of the inside of a tire:

[janobyte]

NOS set in yenko classifieds for $1100! Not sure if camaro or is there a difference. Who would have guessed a set of those around

Uggg, stop! In the day they were pretty much considered ugly, like the dull black underhood paint. Never thought one day I'd be trying to find a close match. As well as reshooting the engine compartment "dull" black.
I vividly remember pitching them to show off those freshly painted black laquer control arms. $1100, JHC!
 

[janobyte]

I got the piece left that went by the drive's side fenderwell bracket, wirhout digging it out tonight, I'm going to say no. It's got a layer of undercoating on it. And a little thinner then the material in your pic. Never even noticed, or paid attention to it till I tore the car apart. Its coming out of storage.

[ZLP955]

Well I also took the plunge and ordered a set of pre-cut shields from Steele Rubber this morning. They estimate 6-10 days to ship here, most likely will be a bit longer, but I'll comment on them when they arrive. I still have the shield that goes below the steering column, so can at least compare the new material with assembly-line rubber.

[janobyte]

Ditto, ordered mine last night.

[Hans L]

After reading all the posts, I was curious to how far off the set of shields I ordered from HBC are from the originals that were installed on my Z. 

What I noted:
- Thickness for reproduction shields is exact to the orgiinals, except for the dust shield by the steering column/inner fender with the bracket.  That particular shield is about 2X thicker than the others.  Fortunately, my original is in excellent shape and re-usable.
- The reproductions are glossy.   My originals are mat finish, but not sure if that's because they are nearly 50 yrs old, have road grim, and over-spray paint.  I'm wondering if it's possible to tone-down the gloss with some acetone/lacquer thinner or use a satin rubber spray paint?
- The texture isn't that far off, but the reproductions are missing the string strands.  I wonder if its possible to lay some string strands on the reproductions and add light coat of some sort of rubberized material or paint to blend them in?

Here's a image comparing the two - I'll note that the texture is a closer match than what appears in the image.

[janobyte]

Got alot going on today, making it quick. Dug my piece up out of storage.

[janobyte]

one more

[janobyte]

Hey, thanks Hans. About right on 2x difference. Piece I posted is very repairable, and should clean up nice for use. Great heads up.

[68camaroz28]

Well I also took the plunge and ordered a set of pre-cut shields from Steele Rubber this morning. They estimate 6-10 days to ship here, most likely will be a bit longer, but I'll comment on them when they arrive. I still have the shield that goes below the steering column, so can at least compare the new material with assembly-line rubber.

Tim, I found what I used and they were REM. Let me know how much material you want from the sheet I have and will send to you if you want to cut ones out. I will load a picture and post of that material.

[68camaroz28]

Well I also took the plunge and ordered a set of pre-cut shields from Steele Rubber this morning. They estimate 6-10 days to ship here, most likely will be a bit longer, but I'll comment on them when they arrive. I still have the shield that goes below the steering column, so can at least compare the new material with assembly-line rubber.

Tim, I found what I used and they were REM. Let me know how much material you want from the sheet I have and will send to you if you want to cut ones out. I will load a picture and post of that material.

A picture I had in my restoration files of what I used.

[firstgenaddict]

Dave Beem had an air operated stapler with anvil made which does a PERFECT job...

I will get him to send me some photos of it again. 

If you take a hand held vibratory sander with some 80 grit on it you can lightly rough up the finish to make them look closer to the originals... if you need survivor looking ones keep going with the sander until they show the strings and cords and then fray up the edges with the sander as well.

[janobyte]

Kit from steele products is .08" thickness, texture looks about the same as my posted piece. Again, that measured .13". So acording to Hans, roughly half of the material by the firewall. Which is what his oe's spec'd.

[Hans L]

Kit from steele products is .08" thickness, texture looks about the same as my posted piece. Again, that measured .13". So acording to Hans, roughly half of the material by the firewall. Which is what his oe's spec'd.

Here's an image comparing the original to the reproduction.  Note the thickness differences.  This is only for the piece that goes between the driver side inner fender and the firewall.  Otherwise, the texture, sans the thin short strings, is pretty good, not exact, but good.  Definitely not inner tube material!  I was able to knock down the gloss some using lacquer thinner.

Reproduction on the left,  Original on the right:


Original on the left,  Reproduction on the right (without the stapled on bracket):


Reproduction on the left,  Original on the right (with the stapled on bracket & clip)

[Mike S]

 I would think that after 50+ years the thickness of an original would shrink a little, so maybe the reproduction is correct being it's new.

Mike

[Hans L]

I would think that after 50+ years the thickness of an original would shrink a little, so maybe the reproduction is correct being it's new.

Mike

Well, keep in mind, the original is ~ 2X thicker than the reproduction...I should have clarified that.   The reproductions match the thickness of the other original splash shields that I have that go on the inner fender apron. 


Hans

[ZLP955]

Tim, I found what I used and they were REM. Let me know how much material you want from the sheet I have and will send to you if you want to cut ones out. I will load a picture and post of that material.

Thanks Chick. I looked up R.E.M. Automotive and they have a large number of vendors selling their products (http://www.remautoinc.com/links.php). If the shields I ordered don't meet expectations (I have no reason to think that), I will try contacting one of the authorised vendors to find the R.E.M. version.

[DAVEN1256]

I hope this isn't high jacking the thread but it seems pertinent to what is being discussed.

I was wondering how everyone who has installed the splash shields is bending over their staples?

I had bought a set of OER splash shields which were the thin (bicycle tube) rubber. I used them because I didn't realize at the time that there was better stuff out there. I installed them on my inner fenders before the inner fenders went in the car. These OER's were so bad that they started falling apart under their own weight. I saw something on the ground under the car one day and it was pieces of the splash shield. They just split apart at the staples and fell off! And the car hasn't even been driven since the splash shields were installed. There's no engine in it yet. This happened with the car standing still!

So anyhow, I have new ones now that I bought from Metro Rubber which are much more like the originals. Now I have to install them with the inner fenders in the car. Thankfully, there is no engine in the way but much less access to some of the staple locations..........So I'm curious as to how everyone is able to bend the staples over nice and tight and not mar any paint.

Thanks......Dave

[BillOhio]

I did chip a little paint but I touched it up with a brush. Like what you would find in a model kit. To get them really tight I had to have someone on the inside of the car with a dolly and I used to punch or something and tap the staple tight.

[ZLP955]

The reproduction set from Steele Rubber arrived a few days ago, but owing to tackling a long list of jobs on the house, I only just got around to having a good look at them. The appearance looks very much like the pictures posted by Hans (reply 34) and Chick (reply 39). Somewhat of a glossier finish, good texture, albeit no significant visible string/cord fibers.
I will take some reference photos and post them in the next few days.
Overall I'm pleased with the quality of Steele's product. I noted some previous suggestions to give them a light hit with the DA sander to reduce the gloss and show a bit o' fiber, but wonder if maybe the appearance we see on survivors is possibly age and wear, and they started out somewhat closer to how the better reproduction pieces look?

[KK302]

Tim, I found what I used and they were REM. Let me know how much material you want from the sheet I have and will send to you if you want to cut ones out. I will load a picture and post of that material.

Thanks Chick. I looked up R.E.M. Automotive and they have a large number of vendors selling their products (http://www.remautoinc.com/links.php). If the shields I ordered don't meet expectations (I have no reason to think that), I will try contacting one of the authorised vendors to find the R.E.M. version.

I put each staple through the inner fender and rubber shield and bent the two ends of each staple over with needle nose pliers. Then I masked off the outside (finished side) of the inner fender where the staple heads were located and used a hammer and dolly. The dolly went on the (taped) outside of the staple head, and hammering was done on the inside of the inner fender to each staple end to fully bend them over and get them tight.

[Dave69x33]

Hello CRG,

I just received a splash shield set BDY-1213 from Heartbeat City. They were made by R.E.M. and they are not correct. I am returning them. The mater is a rubber cork material rather than the fiber rubber material. The lower driver’s side shield that fits below the firewall electrical harness connector is die cut with holes for screws. They should be stapled to the bracket and not screwed on. Dissatisfied with them. Normally the products from HBC are good. Here are some pics.

[169INDY]

I use Restorations Specialties Masticated Rubber Sheet raw and trace and Cut.

[169INDY]

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/masticated-rubber-1-8-36-x-18-half-square-yard-universal/?msclkid=6641961e0e231f50e350f2525bc1885f

[Dave69x33]

Sorry, the pics I took with my iPhone were too large to post. Will downsize them and repost.

[Dave69x33]

Jim,

What did you use to cut the material?

How did you punch the holes at the end of the slits in the large pieces?

Dave

[169INDY]

I traced the Cracked, Split originals using a Silver ink pen (Remove tracing with Laq thinner after as needed), then a Nice Sharp pair of Fiskers scissors and Harbor Freith "Hole' Punches for the tight radius, duplicating those punch holes. I think Lloyd  or Chick used a sander (DA) to 'abrade' and expose the cotton fibers. I was happy with the material as arrived. Since I really only needed ONE.  Come to think about it Lloyd found a Oldsmobile rubber to "Harvest GM" Material for a truly correct appearance.
I found my method to be better than the Smooth plain rubber aftermarket material that really looks out of place as a reasonable compromise.

[Sauron327]

I've made my own years ago for customers. Too much work now. Repops are accurate. I still have a roll of correct material from Restoration Parts. Not worth it to use. Way too many jobs lined up to bother.  I'll use it for my work table.

[Dave69x33]

Here is a picture of the splash shields made by R.E.M. (www.REMAUTOINC.com) I purchased from Heartbeat City Camaro last week, product BDY-1213, for $21.22.  Notice the material is an incorrect rubber-cork rather than the more correct masticated rubber like Hans L shows above in his post #34, and in Chick's post #39.  The R.E.M. material thickness measures between 0.091 - 0.092 inches.  I did find that Steele Rubber Products now offers a die cut 5-piece kit 70-3332-45, for the '67 - '69 Camaro that includes the staples for $45.89.  It's twice the price but a more accurate repro part (if that is what you are after).

Has anyone recently used the Steele's kit?  Does it have holes punched in the shield that installs on the bracket and clip (see janobyte's post #35) in the lower driver's side under the master brake cylinder?  My hope is that this shield DOES NOT have the holes punched in it so I can stapled to the bracket.

Thanks,
Dave

[Sauron327]

I own a resto shop and do this daily. Not sure why people on this site do do dot this 24/7 in the biz. I just charge the customer.

[Sauron327]

Here is a picture of the splash shields made by R.E.M. (www.REMAUTOINC.com) I purchased from Heartbeat City Camaro last week, product BDY-1213, for $21.22.  Notice the material is an incorrect rubber-cork rather than the more correct masticated rubber like Hans L shows above in his post #34, and in Chick's post #39.  The R.E.M. material thickness measures between 0.091 - 0.092 inches.  I did find that Steele Rubber Products now offers a die cut 5-piece kit 70-3332-45, for the '67 - '69 Camaro that includes the staples for $45.89.  It's twice the price but a more accurate repro part (if that is what you are after).

Garbage. Why did you buy them?

Has anyone recently used the Steele's kit?  Does it have holes punched in the shield that installs on the bracket and clip (see janobyte's post #35) in the lower driver's side under the master brake cylinder?  My hope is that this shield DOES NOT have the holes punched in it so I can stapled to the bracket.

Thanks,
Dave

[Sauron327]

Garbage. Why did you buy them?

[Dave69x33]

Sauron327,

HBC does not list who is the OEM supplier of their splash shields.  I typically like the parts from HBC. I going to return them. I did however trace them on heavy weight paper to make patterns if I need them to make my own. I wanted others who search on this site on the topic to know not to buy REM shield.

[CantRepeat]

Garbage. Why did you buy them?

Aren't you just a pill.

Without having them in his hands how was he to know the quality.

In my short time here I've come to know you are a first class grade A jerk. No amount of experience or knowledge gives you the right to an Ahole to anyone.

[Dave69x33]

Thanks CantRepeat.  No worries. I did not take offense and moved on.  That is what I enjoy about CRG; we get a lot of feedback good and bad on topics and questions. Depending on one’s level of experience with 1st Gens and restoring them, it’s easy to weed out non-constructive input. Guess I should have done more homework on CRG on splash shields b4 clicking the “add to cart” button…lol!

I have owned my ‘69 RS Z28 for 28 years, a did a 4-year concourse level restoration, and have photo documented numerous survivor ‘69s, but I still learn some new with every visit on CRG.

Still would like to know if any folks have used Steeler’s splash shield and get their thoughts on them.

I will call Steele on Monday and ask them a few questions about their kit.

[169INDY]

The Name of the Site is "Research"

I am in for a pound,,,,,,.

Keep it up Dave, never mind the "Noise"

(*I have composed a few reply's then hit delete as we want a constructive atmosphere)

[Sauron327]

Garbage. Why did you buy them?

Aren't you just a pill.
Thank you for the compliment. God only knows how much pro advice I have supplied to this site and every trim tag and data that has gone through my shop. I'm sure you guys have dozens of cars to send to Kurt.

Without having them in his hands how was he to know the quality.

In my short time here I've come to know you are a first class grade A jerk. No amount of experience or knowledge gives you the right to an Ahole to anyone.

As a shop owner I verify quality  before a purchase.

[Sauron327]

Cake walk on Repops.  As a shop I always check return policy and quality. Brainless. Not sure why hobby guys cannot run like a pro biz.

[Hans L]

Here is a picture of the splash shields made by R.E.M. (www.REMAUTOINC.com) I purchased from Heartbeat City Camaro last week, product BDY-1213, for $21.22.  Notice the material is an incorrect rubber-cork rather than the more correct masticated rubber like Hans L shows above in his post #34, and in Chick's post #39.  The R.E.M. material thickness measures between 0.091 - 0.092 inches.  I did find that Steele Rubber Products now offers a die cut 5-piece kit 70-3332-45, for the '67 - '69 Camaro that includes the staples for $45.89.  It's twice the price but a more accurate repro part (if that is what you are after).

Has anyone recently used the Steele's kit?  Does it have holes punched in the shield that installs on the bracket and clip (see janobyte's post #35) in the lower driver's side under the master brake cylinder?  My hope is that this shield DOES NOT have the holes punched in it so I can stapled to the bracket.

Thanks,
Dave

Clearly they changed suppliers from some years ago as those are quite different than what I sourced from HBC

[Edgemontvillage]

For another take on a solution for dust shield replacement, have a look at my build thread on TC, Post #735, here is the link:
 https://www.camaros.net/threads/1969-camaro-rs-z-28-brooklyn-project.337897/page-37

[Sauron327]

For another take on a solution for dust shield replacement, have a look at my build thread on TC, Post #735, here is the link:
 https://www.camaros.net/threads/1969-camaro-rs-z-28-brooklyn-project.337897/page-37

Good info. Would not waste my time today. Others are making quality repros. Been there...done that.

[Dave69x33]

Yesterday I received splash shield kit 70-3332-45 from Steele Rubber Products.  I am happy with the quality and masticated rubber material. It measures 0.092" thick.  The splash shield that fits on the bracket and clip located below the main bulkhead electrical harness connection and master cylinder, does NOT have the die cut holes, and uses stables to attach it to the bracket rather than screws. The Steele kit does include staples.

[169INDY]

https://www.steelerubber.com/splash-apron-70-3332-45

[69 Zee]

Garbage. Why did you buy them?

Sauron327,

What's your go-to source and would you kindly share who you use when replacing these splash shields.  It's apparent that what everyone else is using seems to not be totally correct to specs, yet you're stating "cake walk on repops", "repops are accurate" and you "would not waste your time today (making) as others are making quality repros".

Thanks

[Sauron327]

I bought the masticated rubber from Resoration Specialties when I made my own. Next time I bought pre-cuts from Repops and was pleased.

[bcmiller]

I bought the masticated rubber from Resoration Specialties when I made my own. Next time I bought pre-cuts from Repops and was pleased.

Do you mean this company?
http://www.repops.com/

I checked there and apparently you can't order direct from them?  It says this
For Pricing or Ordering,
Contact Any of Our Partnered
Retailers and Distributors.

[Sauron327]

Garbage. Why did you buy them?

Aren't you just a pill.

Without having them in his hands how was he to know the quality.

In my short time here I've come to know you are a first class grade A jerk. No amount of experience or knowledge gives you the right to an Ahole to anyone.

I'm not offended by your statement. I kind of feel bad for you but that would be a waste of energy. LOL.
I've been through so much BS as a resto and bodyshop I take precautions before a purchase. I often ask for pictures of a product and verify the return policy will not cost me a dime.

[Sauron327]

I bought the masticated rubber from Resoration Specialties when I made my own. Next time I bought pre-cuts from Repops and was pleased.

Do you mean this company?
http://www.repops.com/

I checked there and apparently you can't order direct from them?  It says this
For Pricing or Ordering,
Contact Any of Our Partnered
Retailers and Distributors.

Affirmative. Repops. I spoke with them today. Page 90 in the catalog. If you call she will provide the part#. Nice gal. Ask them to text you a pic. I'd do it here but I gave my roll to a friend for his project. They sell it by the foot. I may have purchased it directly with my business or asked who the vendor was. Sometimes one has to sand a piece here and there if you want to see the fibers.  Sharp scissors is an understatement, and you have to punch the holes in the corners like factory. I have some so old and worn there are far too many fibers showing. As we all know rubber deteriorates after 50 years.