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Messages - melav8r

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61
Originality / Re: 1967 California License plate Numbers??
« on: March 18, 2009, 07:54:45 PM »
From original black plate california cars I've seen live and in pictures, I've researched this topic, I would say to be in the ballpark '67 plates can typically start with R, S or T, '68 plates U, V, W, and '69's X, Y, Z and first run blue plates for late model '69's as well. Of coarse all vary by date of original purchase and by county as previously mentioned. Hope this helps.

62
Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 heater hose bracket
« on: January 29, 2009, 06:40:04 PM »
For the cars that did have the heater hose bracket on the alt bracket, does it attach with a single bolt from the top or a stud of some type using a washer and nut?
The FAM shows a washer and nut to a stud which sticks up from the underside of the alt bracket. I've always thought it was a single bolt attached from the top, no washer no nut. If it is a stud, is that actually a bolt threaded from the underside of the bracket?

63
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: January 01, 2009, 03:19:50 AM »
Thanks John, I actually walked into the local AC Delco distributor and gave the D1312C number you provided and the service guy told me I wouldn't see it for about a month. Fortunately I found the AutoZone part number and after I picked up the first one last night and confirmed it was a B28, I ordered a 2nd one which I should have by Saturday for my original 480 which will remain on the shelf even though i completely cleaned and reserviced it including reskinning so it looks great!! oh well. BTW, picked up a small tube of moly grease for the grease well at a local hobby shop for $5.

As for the B28 I picked up last night, stuck it in my DavesSmallBodyHEI this morning which although I specified 6"-8" of idle vacuum when I had Dave build it, he supplied with a B26 can, (VC1808 or same as VC1765/B20). so with full manifold vacuum the engine would hunt around and idle would surge and drop and hunt and... you get the picture. Because of this for the last year, when I put Dave's SBHEI in service,  I've had it hooked up to ported vacuum.
So, like I said, Installed the B28 this morning, reinstalled the distrib, set static timing to 8*, hooked up full manifold vacuum to the can and the car runs great!! Crisp throttle response, stable idle, significantly less to nill gas fumes in the passenger compartment... nuff said!!
So with 8* of initial, total timing @ 3200 rpm is 37*. could probably stand some more initial but runs great and starts right up as set now so there it will stay!!

I know this subject has been beaten and rebeaten over the years but... ;D

64
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: December 31, 2008, 09:35:44 AM »
The VC-1810 is ideal but NAPA tells me it is NLA.

AutoZone sells them as # DV1810, $12 and no additional shipping or freight charges if ordered from a local store. You'll get it in 2-3 business days.

http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,dv1810/shopping/allResults.htm;jsessionid=5E07B3BEBFE00E9E93B1D95A3164F469

66
Restoration / Re: Fuel Pump Restoration?
« on: November 05, 2008, 03:48:52 PM »
Leaking fuel is most definitely a safety concern.

Jimmy V.

Let me rephrase that, Its either gonna to leak or its not, just as a new pump could, and can be easily monitored. JMO. Personally, I'm running an aftermarket Carter on my car.

68
Restoration / Re: Fuel Pump Restoration?
« on: November 04, 2008, 09:19:50 PM »
The original crimped-bottom pumps were never designed to be rebuilt; I wouldn't put a rebuilt crimped pump on my car, for safety reasons.
John, I don't see any inherent danger other than the possibility of leakage. Is that the safety concern? If so, I would think close monitoring wouldn't be too big a burden especially if the car is not driven too much, like mine.

69
Restoration / Re: Fuel Pump Restoration?
« on: October 20, 2008, 09:51:04 PM »
The original crimped-bottom pumps were never designed to be rebuilt; I wouldn't put a rebuilt crimped pump on my car, for safety reasons.

What do you think of these units being sold by Heartbeat City? I was considering purchasing one but now have reservations after considering your post.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=270282003391

70
Hey mel, thanks for the pic, I appreciate it.

If possible, if the floor hole is still accessible,  could you lay a ruler or tape measure next to the hole, with the ruler's starting "0" end at the floor crease just ahead of the hole, and take another pic for hole size and location? This would help me in prepping for my car's "surgery".   

Do you (or anyone) know if this looks like a hole that was cut at the factory?


Thanks again!

 


Actually out of town until the weekend of the 25th, not sure if the dimensions are in the '69 FAM. Anyone know? Looks like you can use the boot retainer for a template.

71
1969 - Orphans / Re: V0103DZ block for 19N576964?? on ebay
« on: October 07, 2008, 10:49:17 PM »
pretty spendy for a block that needed a resleeved cylinder!!

73
hope this helps, its a 69 camaro with a hurst shifter.

74
That is correct, bleeder screws need to be on top!!

75
The 69 Chev Chasis Service Manual says: "The spring loaded end of the pressure metering valve must be depressed while bleeding. This can be done by depressing and holding in the plunger in the end of the valve either by hand or by clamping."
They are referring to the proportioning valve mounted under the master for the front brakes.
Since you swapped out the master cylinder you should re-bleed the entire system if you haven't already done so. Also does the rear port in your master cylinder have a check valve installed? This keeps residual pressure to the rear brakes and can cause a spongy brake pedal.
I personally have had good results using a Mityvac Brake Bleeder without having to touch the proportioning valve. Uses a handheld vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. Available at Napa, Harbor Freight, etc...
good luck.

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