Messages

106

Originality / Aluminum intake BB bolts?

« on: July 13, 2017, 04:40:24 PM »

Hi,
I bought a master screw kit for my ZL-1 project but I don't really understand where all the stud bolts should go when mounting the aluminum intake?
They look like this: https://www.camarocentral.com/1969_1970_Intake_Stud_Big_Block_p/enc-338.htm

As I t says there one should be for the alternator bracket and one maybe for the fuel block, but the rest? It's four of them in the kit.

107

Site Comments/Discussion / Re: Photobucket.com problems...BIG time!

« on: June 30, 2017, 01:43:22 PM »

How can we act to make photobucket reasonable again, suggests?

Hit'em where it hurts.  Stop using them.  I did over a year ago.

That's easier said then done, Iīm afraid! 
I've got threads that I started years ago and they still are active and to start to edit the pics, if its even possible, itīs not an option! 

108

Site Comments/Discussion / Photobucket.com problems...BIG time!

« on: June 30, 2017, 11:54:43 AM »

Hi,
After more then 11 years as a happy user I, and a huge amount of internet users, today discovered that photobucket.com decided to take action against 3rd party hosting usage as they call it. 

This makes all my threads in different forums, including this one.,..... round the world, worthless cause all the pics are gone... 

Photobucket.com demands a fee of $399 a year to let the pics be used in forums, homepages and similar.
How can we act to make photobucket reasonable again, suggests?
Otherwise this act is going to kill a lot of good and reliable forums connected to our hobby... 

109

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: June 27, 2017, 11:35:33 AM »

That is going to be one fun car!

Thanks...hope youīre right! 

110

Originality / Re: How is the original spare tire mounted?

« on: June 26, 2017, 08:35:23 PM »

FYI:
Remember JohnZ's pic above is the correct mounting.

Huggers orange car, he decided to mount it with the letters up, and go through a stud hole.

Correct, Bullit!
Mine is a custom thing but it looks far better in the trunk, in my opinion! 

111

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: June 26, 2017, 12:38:20 PM »

Weīve had a Midsummers holiday here in Sweden this weekend but I managed to get some hours off to continue the build of the ZL-1.

A proper, and hopefully period correct, fuel pump from AC Delco have found its new home:


The aluminum water pump is also in place now:


Since I choose to use the factory installed exhaust manifolds, they went in as well:


Rocker covers made the all the parts getting more and more looking like a real engine!




Itīs always something missing so Iīm waiting for some parts from US & A to arrive...maybe in the next coming weeks?!

112

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: June 12, 2017, 09:33:35 AM »

Even if everything is moving slowly, suddenly things are happening!

The Hugger itself needs some attention during this heart change so Iīve done some work in the engine bay and I finally got the heater box out!




The new heater core from NPD, that I got as a gift from winning as ROTM on Team Camaro, didnīt fit in height even though it was made for a 1969 BB Camaro! Thatīs not good for NPD......


Now I have to let the local radiator shop build me a new and correct one, We have an original 1969 BB core as a template so hopefully we get it right.
As said here in Sweden: - I f you want something right, you have to do it yourself!

The missing parts for the engine has arrived so I've started to do some mounting.
The timing chain and gear, the timing cover and the special cam looking plate are now in place.


The timing cover and harmonic balancer in place...


The heads came back from the engine shop with the new and correct springs from Crane in place.
We didn't put the inner springs in yet due to the breaking in process of the cam.


Other stuff that didn't come with the block are now in place.


Then I started with the beautiful head gaskets from Felpro...


But after mounting a bunch of bolt by hand I realized that 8 of them was too long for my heads...I had bought a special kit for aluminum heads and block  but maybe different heads has this setup of bolts?
We had to order 8 new ones and luckily they had them here in Sweden so we had them in a day. I also discovered some thread problems in one the block holes and fixed that before I continued to mount the heads. The new bolts had 6 point heads instead of 12 point but I place them under the valve covers. Now every bolt is tightened correctly with its right torque.


The Melling oil pump has been docked with the adjusted pickup and a spot weld keep the pickup in place.


I couldn't help myself...I just had to test mount the intake just to se how it will appear...!


You just have to love how the engineers at Chevrolets put in to these parts...

113

General Discussion / Re: I saw a real 1969 Yenko up for sale,

« on: June 06, 2017, 07:32:32 AM »

...just another Camero! 

114

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: May 22, 2017, 07:37:29 AM »

Finally the ZL-1 block is home in my garage...it actually arrived last Tuesday even though it was delayed due to a broken crank seal.
 
Mot motor shop guy Ulf was generous to lend me his own engine stand from Snap On. Nice gear box with crank for easier and controlled rotation. You just have to love the detailing from Chevrolet on the cam shaft cover from:


Itīs a beauty from any angle....


Then we had the positive and negative news regarding the heads...     
Starting with the positive the heads look very nice overall and machine work that was already done on them for the valves was remarkable good! We just bought them on eBay based on just the pics so you really don't know what to expect really.
The stainless valves had some numbers on them that I had to check and it turned out that these valves are really good shit, so to speak! They are from Ferrea and their Competition Plus series! Some times the sun shines on me too...! They are priced almost as much as I gave for just the heads on eBay!   

The negative was that the valve guides, se below, were made of cast iron and that could be a problem together with stainless steel valves and aluminum heads. We also noticed that the springs were to low in rate and they were missing the bottom cup/locators so we had to order new parts from Crane and that will get us two extra weeks of waiting . 




We decided to go for K-line insert bushings and that work was done after the pics were taken.

Other things that went missing from the block are all the guide pins for the heads, cam, transmisson and the cap and screws for the camchaft.
....when you are new to this type of project as I am itīs a lots of thing to think about so I guess this will happen again before the motor is ready to go back in the Hugger!

115

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: May 09, 2017, 08:49:42 PM »

Suddenly things started to happen... 

I was invited to the motor shop late yesterday evening by the owner and this is the first thing that caught my eye:


I think this is gonna be great..isnīt it a beautiful? If you look close you can se the extra holes that these aluminium block got due to the fact that they had problem with the early ZL-1 and CamAm engines, they blew the head gaskets in this area.


The block is milled from Chevrolet to avoid contact between the block and rod bolts. I think this not that common or does anybody else now?


Since the block is brand new and weīre using standard dimension on the pistons,he just used the stones when making the cylinders.
A brand new set of stred plates were mounted before action:


The outer most pistons are temporary mounted for checking squisch and decking dimension.


The domes are cosy on the pistons, huh?


We just had to get a cylinder head on so we could check for clearance between pistons and valves and it was ok!
Itīs not hard to see that this beast is not an easy thing to get down in the subframe of the Hugger....


Today I got a pic from the engine shop when the top decking is ongoing.


If everything is going our way the motor would be ready for me during next week. Then the block and the heads are cleaned and the crank, pistons, rods, cam gear & chain and the cam are mounted and in place. Then its up to me to complete the rest for the first time in my life, exciting to say the least! 

116

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: May 04, 2017, 12:53:13 PM »

...now when its getting brighter outside its time for an late update!

Iīve been busy with a lot of other things but a few hours has been spent on freshing up the engine bay and also hopefully fixed a leaking manual steering box.
The heating core has to be changed so that process is started.
Unfortunate the work on the block hasnīt started yet so I'm still waiting for that to happen but I rather wait a couple of weeks extra and get a god job instead of fast and wrong! 

I finally got all my stuff that I ordered in late December early January from different parts of the USA:






This is what arrived this time:
- Crane hydraulic lifters
- Special alu head bolts
- Crane push rods
- Crane gear and chain
- ARP oil pump shaft
- ARP fuel pump shaft
- Cast iron BB exhaust manifolds
- Flowmaster 2,5" downpipes
- Master BB engine bolt kit
- BB frame mounts
- BB motor mounts
- Heater box gasket kit
- SB factory heater box block off
- BB heater core
- Heater core bracket
- Melling oil pickup
- Melling oil pump
- Black oil pan
- BB heater hose outlet cover
- Intake gasket set BB
- D-port BB exhaust gasket set
- BB overhaul gasket set
- Generator pulley
- Crank shaft pulley
- Water pump pulley
- Generator bracket
- Waterpump alu
- Manual steering box gasket kit
- Thermostat 195F
- Fuel lines from pump to carb
- Fan wheel generator
- Positive battery oil pan clip
- Heater hose clamp
- Fan shroud BB

Iīm still waiting for parts that will arrive in late June so the engine will not be ready for early season but thatīs life...

The radiator just got freshened up cause it look real good and itīs not that old I guess?!


The new motor mounts has also been fitted....NOT that easy to access the nuts beneath the frame there...



Iīll be back as soon as I now more! 

 

117

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: February 03, 2017, 07:51:18 AM »

Thank you KurtS....Camaros, cars,  please

I completely agree, thanx again Kurt! 

Oh, and I love following this engine build and install! Please keep it coming, man! Very exciting.

Wow, that's really fun to hear, thanx man! 
I will do but for the moment this all there is to show...but stay tuned I`ll keep it coming!
But don't hesitate to comment or ask questions....this is the first time for me with building an engine and putting it in again, never done this before! 

118

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: February 01, 2017, 08:08:51 PM »

Looking good, but where is the Manual transmission behind it?

Thanx, Bullit! Isn't that a nick for a Mustang btw? 
Nope, gonna keep tha automatic! Just love crus'n...

119

Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....

« on: February 01, 2017, 11:25:40 AM »

After some holidays, fireworks, and other miscellaneous stuff we actually did some work progress on The Hugger!
The first major step of the heart transplant is done!
 
I started with swapping the cars place in my garage so the Hugger got more space around it for easier access....

 
I did some hours for preparation the day before D-day. Marking cables, emptying the cooling system and taking everything off that shouldnīt go with the 355. Iīll keep the tranny in the car and later bolt it to the ZL-1.

 
The Hedmann headers went out together with radiator, generator and distributor....

 
Off with the cowl hood with help from two Camaro-friends. They are really experienced with this kind of work so Iīm very happy for the assistance, cause Iīm newbie when it comes to taking motors out from a car. Very educational.

 

 
The motor is out of the car for the first time since it came to Sweden in 2005.
A really reliable and stabile motor lift is a bless this times. Professional tools always make work easier!.

 
The 355 is already sold and will find itīs place under the very red hood of a 1968 SS/RS Camaro.
 
We then pushed the Camaro sideways using simple tire skates and two trolley jacks, went very easy and smooth!.
Now its time for The Hugger to lokka back on itīs time as a teenager cause itīs soon going to be a real man!

 
An empty gap soon to be filled with a new ZL-1! But in the mean time its an easy access for work.

 
...to be continued!

120

General Discussion / Re: Cowl Plenum VS. Cowl Induction Air Cleaner Systems

« on: December 30, 2016, 09:10:25 AM »

My 70 formula is a ram air car, however it grabs air front and center just over the bumper of the car.  Said to be one of the more effective setups from the muscle car era, but seldom seen today (293 made in 1970)  On a setup that grabs fresh air at the windshield, it might work, but I'm sure it won't be as effective as the design on my Pontiac.  I'm going to test the theory on my Z though, at the track with the ZL2 setup and without.  I'm predicting I won't see the differences I see with my Pontiac.  Especially since the Z is such a small engine anyway.

That's interesting cause I always read that's it the complete opposite due to the stagnation pressure that you get when having a scoop pointing towards the front...unless you have something that sucks air in like a blower or turbo!? Found this interesting regarding this issue:

The basic aerodynamics is that you cannot increase air pressure above static air pressure until you start to approach compressible fluid flow - near the speed of sound.

A "Ram Air" scoop (or any other scoop) can increase the volume of the air flow if it is otherwise restricted, but it cannot increase air pressure to your engine, or other wise provide a "supercharging" effect.

Some basics:

Static (non-moving) air pressure at seal level under standard atmospheric conditions (a "standardized" temperature and humidity) is about 14.7 PSI. Without otherwise compressing air, that's the most you can get. Period. As air moves over a surface, it often speeds up - an example is an airfoil (wing) of an airplane, or more simply, your car. Ignoring altitude, temperature and humidity, typically, moving air is of lower pressure than 14.7 PSI. Non-moving (static) air can be no higher than 14.7.

As air moves over a surface, it creates a boundary layer. The air on the surface is at zero velocity relative to the surface (or your car for instance). The air some (very) small distance above the surface is moving rapidly relative to the surface of your car (i.e. to you the air feels that it is moving at 70 MPH when you are driving at 70 MPH). This air is lower than 14.7 PSI, relative to your car, because it is moving (to get out of the way of your car). The air flow between the top and the bottom of the boundary layer is moving at speeds in between the two, proportional to their distance from the surface...

Some areas of your car have relatively static non-moving air - the tip of your bumper for instance. Other parts of your car have rapidly moving air (the top of your hood, the sides of the door, etc.), that are at a relatively low pressure (ever open the side window a bit while driving fast and feel the air rushing out of the car at the opening? It's the "high pressure" air rushing into the "low pressure" air outside of the car.

Sticking a scoop or "Ram Air" intake on a car cannot provide more than static air pressure. Air entering the scoop, at best, can "slow down" to low velocity and relatively static air pressure, but that's it. The scoop can increase the volume of air that can be "sucked" into the engine, but it can't increase the pressure unless you are approaching the speed of sound - and I doubt that many of us have to worry about that. If the car has a very restrictive air source, the intake can be "starved" for air, and not getting enough. Adding a scoop to provide more available air can help things, but so would putting a bigger less restrictive air box on the end of the intake (that what the cone filters are supposed to be doing). In either case, 14.7 PSI is the maximum air pressure that is available. Period.

Besides the front of the bumper, a very good source of static (relatively high) air pressure is the base of the windshield. As air flows over the hood of your car, the air "smoothes" itself out, and leaves an area at the base of the windshield that is relatively static - non-moving. If you arms are long enough (and the road empty enough), try an experiment. Reach your hand around the side (or over the top) of the windshield while traveling at say 60 MPH. As you reach around the windshield, you will feel a strong "wind". But as you get your hand to the area near where the wipers park, it will be relatively calm. This is a "high" pressure zone. It's where most every car made has the intake for the cars ventilation system - "high" pressure, slow moving air that can pass thru to the cars interior and out the windows/vents. This also makes a good place to suck in the air for the engine's intake. Some will remember back in the early '70s when Chevy used to sell cars with "Cowl Induction" - it was a backwards facing scoop on the hood that pulled "high" pressure air from the base of the windshield. They worked quite well. Some company (I don't remember which) sells a set up that feeds air from the Miata cowl to the air box. It should also work well, but it still can only produce 14.7 PSI. And the area under the hood near the air box on a Miata is most likely as close to 14.7 PSI as possible.

However, the real advantage of the Cowl Induction, Ram Air, or just a plain air scoop, is that it feeds cooler air to the engine. The air box in a Miata pulls air from under the hood that has been warmed - heated by the radiator, and the exhaust - and warm air is not as dense as cold air. With cold air, more actual air gets into the cylinders, which in turn makes more power. Cold air is good. My old Honda used to pull air from behind the head light. My '96 Ford Ranger pulls air from in front of the right front wheel liner, behind the head lights - nice cool air in both cases, and protected from road debris and water...

If a Ram Air, Scoop, or cowl induction makes any more power for an engine, it is simply that it is allowing cooler air into the engine. Period. Or to be generous, it might be allowing a less restrictive air flow to get to the intake. But none of them can add more pressure above static pressure that is what's all around us.

Then there is subject of NACA Ducts ("scoops"). These are nothing new, and have been around for many, many years on aircraft (NACA was the predecessor to NASA). NACA ducts are designed/shaped such that they bleed off the boundary layer into the ducting. The air is diverted into the duct at relatively static pressures, and a new boundary layer forms on the rear of the duct. It allows air to be drawn in, without any noticeable increase in drag - that's why they are used on aircraft (and high end race cars). For most cars, they are just for looks...

Tim Mullen - Yea, I studied (and used) all this aerodynamics (subsonic and supersonic), fluid flow, heat transfer, etc....